tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-85285455745697004002024-02-06T22:14:19.540-06:00Musings from Paradise, an Ex-pat's Life in San Miguel de AllendeOne gringa's ramblings on life in beautiful MexicoCarol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.comBlogger15125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-63218458221571319582019-05-16T18:36:00.000-05:002019-07-01T15:08:53.924-05:00The Origin and History of a Beloved San Miguel de Allende Landmark: the Parroquia de San Miguel de Arcángel<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6WGqV6j1v0UXrKgRLB8vB1GJu9qNL_VR_Fqw_iFZ5E5jDyCUt9wsibGBDDZIH8yfo-INfxaGQH-wkJEjD3Rhk3K32lUrC5MmJA2WixeIXhBrEXCfhSG6DABHqTWROyI1FHol0MTKG9ddM/s1600/IMG_20190314_184152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6WGqV6j1v0UXrKgRLB8vB1GJu9qNL_VR_Fqw_iFZ5E5jDyCUt9wsibGBDDZIH8yfo-INfxaGQH-wkJEjD3Rhk3K32lUrC5MmJA2WixeIXhBrEXCfhSG6DABHqTWROyI1FHol0MTKG9ddM/s640/IMG_20190314_184152.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjobJVnUXRcB0IBrKyN7ItdKpyo3jpAnaoLx_Z0mqnYilNY35nHYxcabRw61AyMPld0XcBa8zvkqJVlIOReP5EhO8XSbB-Qr0-Dz6ve07bGTXWb4xYG0pNWw9G5m9eWke-mX4sRpxQvU9_p/s1600/download+%25286%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="250" data-original-width="474" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjobJVnUXRcB0IBrKyN7ItdKpyo3jpAnaoLx_Z0mqnYilNY35nHYxcabRw61AyMPld0XcBa8zvkqJVlIOReP5EhO8XSbB-Qr0-Dz6ve07bGTXWb4xYG0pNWw9G5m9eWke-mX4sRpxQvU9_p/s400/download+%25286%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Towering proudly above the center of our pueblo is
the stately and distinctive pink lady, the Parroquia de San Miguel de Allende
Arcangel. She is a bit of an anomaly in the sense that her showy towers remind some visitors of a pretty wedding cake that strayed a bit from
architectural traditions while others appreciate the way the late afternoon sun
illuminates her unique details, creating quite an extraordinary experience. She has become a destination where Sanmiguelenses and tourists
alike make lasting memories. Selfie sticks abound, suggesting people just love
this place. With that in mind, I thought it might be nice to delve into the
history of the Parroquia, an eternal symbol of San Miguel de Allende.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">In 1542, the Franciscan
priest, Fray Juan de San Miguel built the Chapel of San Miguel </span>Arcángel<span style="color: black;"> on the site now referred to as San Miguel el Viejo, approximately
a mile from <span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">the center of the existing
city of <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>San Miguel de Allende<i>.</i></span>
The actual history of San Miguel de Allende is usually dated from that event.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">Fray Juan established a mission on that site, and
soon moved on to found other projects in other locales. He left San Miguel to
be managed by the very capable, Fray Bernardo Cossín, who supervised the
conversion of the Chichemeca Indians to Catholicism. </span><span style="background: white;">Chichimeca was the name that the Nahua peoples of
Mexico commonly applied to nomadic and semi-nomadic peoples who were
established in the bajio region of west-central Mexico. Chichimeca carried the same
inference as the Roman term "barbarian" used to define Germanic
tribes.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">At this time in history, enormous veins of
silver were discovered in Zacatecas, and mule caravans were soon flowing southward
through central Mexico, carrying the silver to the capital. In 1550, a group of
Chichimecas took issue with this invasion of their territory and attacked the
village of San Miguel el Viejo. Fifteen people were murdered and the village
was burned to the ground. Fray Bernardo decided to seek safer ground and moved
his converts to another location nearby. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">Fray Bernardo
re-established the group at the site of the Chorro spring (now located in the
center of town near Parque Juarez) and began the process of rebuilding. </span>Shortly
after the founding of the town of San Miguel el Grande (now referred to as San
Miguel de Allende,) in 1555, the original parroquia or parish church was constructed
in 1578 at its present location. The church has a long and interesting history well worth investigating.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">In 1649, it was recorded that the Church of San
Miguel el Grande collapsed after a period of decline. Around 1680 or 1690,
thirty years later, the building had deteriorated a second time. As a result, a
commission for a grand architectural project to replace it was begun. This
version was completed in 1709. The work was directed by the architect Marco
Antonio Sobrarías. The church was described by some experts to be in the Baroque
style and by other accounts, in the Plateresque style common almost exclusively
to Spain during the late Baroque or early Renaissance. Plateresque means “in
the manner of the silversmiths.” The style was characterized by elaborate
ornamentation suggestive of silver plate. An example of the style can be found
in the façade of the University of Salamanca in Spain. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Mcj-B5n_YCjEtmLRnqLiXyZ6d74aL3cuQL197_0Xz-DYb2D1TLzAU1Bjw_I_fy6NE84gn0D-Y_3qw3Uev2hDFRAs4BusSeBZjJbcdNa_C25Rw-Twktvy24m8b_AfgePKsU49-7wDQNvq/s1600/download.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="355" data-original-width="474" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Mcj-B5n_YCjEtmLRnqLiXyZ6d74aL3cuQL197_0Xz-DYb2D1TLzAU1Bjw_I_fy6NE84gn0D-Y_3qw3Uev2hDFRAs4BusSeBZjJbcdNa_C25Rw-Twktvy24m8b_AfgePKsU49-7wDQNvq/s320/download.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"> The University of Salamanca, Spain in the Plateresque style</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">The style of the church in 1709 was totally different from the current facade of the Parroquia in the Neo-Gothic style that we know and appreciate today.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large; line-height: 115%;">Celebrated architect, Francisco Eduardo Tresguerras
from nearby Celeya, was involved in the restoration of the Parroguia in the
beginning of the 19<sup>th</sup> century.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz1kkuL07cEJ-3kaoEbs71lrhgkM1zcNbQpnaCVTY30Mukoe0aXtL1euMcZ-9Xo5LrmRnN-nmk2ObpmvswW-HoERElV2BOgH7XbEgIG8gSpemrRdPGlqIfC-MxTihw2W9-W2PezFza-ld5/s1600/download+%25284%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz1kkuL07cEJ-3kaoEbs71lrhgkM1zcNbQpnaCVTY30Mukoe0aXtL1euMcZ-9Xo5LrmRnN-nmk2ObpmvswW-HoERElV2BOgH7XbEgIG8gSpemrRdPGlqIfC-MxTihw2W9-W2PezFza-ld5/s320/download+%25284%2529.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large; line-height: 115%;"> Image of Tresguerras courtesy of es.wikipedia.com</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large; line-height: 115%;">Tresguerras is <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>also credited with the design of the Templo de
San Francisco in San Miguel in 1799. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSvT5_L2_dyySfHmlDlo5tB9Whj79KkEM84rXviln1OzVZAuMD-dFohS-zCoBnWpcGfkJ5DD52vg8l2O6ldq4hw9Zsh_mF8wdM5itXUTwga_8X-8cKwY9_S-_1K6D4MQlBIvdtHDg8d6HI/s1600/download+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="488" data-original-width="366" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSvT5_L2_dyySfHmlDlo5tB9Whj79KkEM84rXviln1OzVZAuMD-dFohS-zCoBnWpcGfkJ5DD52vg8l2O6ldq4hw9Zsh_mF8wdM5itXUTwga_8X-8cKwY9_S-_1K6D4MQlBIvdtHDg8d6HI/s320/download+%25283%2529.jpg" width="239" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large; line-height: 115%;"> Templo de San Francisco designed by Tresguerra in 1799</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large; line-height: 115%;"> photo courtesy of art.com</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large; line-height: 115%;"> He remodeled the interior of the Parroquia
and created the crypt that contains the remains of priests and prominent local
citizens.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqWhdF_N9GilvdT0WkRUorxf3pn1klPaqDhX5EMbSjC0K44DXzBSqlsDkXV3kHYOnFzRUg7TE6CqhI_zt4reysLc-ajFN6mqo6B4eT3AvmbRRwQPHlVjLomv9xnHtvEwg12809sY6p2sYd/s1600/image++of+interior+courtesy+of+Travel+and+Leisure.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqWhdF_N9GilvdT0WkRUorxf3pn1klPaqDhX5EMbSjC0K44DXzBSqlsDkXV3kHYOnFzRUg7TE6CqhI_zt4reysLc-ajFN6mqo6B4eT3AvmbRRwQPHlVjLomv9xnHtvEwg12809sY6p2sYd/s640/image++of+interior+courtesy+of+Travel+and+Leisure.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large; line-height: 115%;"> Interior of the current Parroquia photo courtesy of Travel and Leisure</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large; line-height: 115%;">Out of respect for the deceased, public access to the crypt is restricted to once a
year during the celebration of el Dia de los Muertos. In 1864, the crypt was
visited by Maxmillian Habsburg who described it as “a tomb worthy of kings.” <span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Maximilian<b> </b>I</span><span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"> was the only monarch of </span></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">the Second Mexican Empire. Eventually, the Parroquia began to show signs of
wear once again. Cracks and fissures appeared in the elaborate façade and a
renewed fear developed regarding its imminent collapse provoking the First Bishop
of the Diocese, Don Jose de Jesus Diez de Sollano and Davalos to commission a change
in the façade. Shortly thereafter, the Parroquia acquired its current appearance.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large; line-height: 115%;">The construction of the new facade was started in
1880 and completed in 1890 by the master stonemason, Don Zeferino Gutiérrez Muñoz. To add a bit of local color, Zeferino has been described as a short, chubby fellow with a great deal of ambition who grew up under the poorest of circumstances.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaLpUw68vI-oFuyOhjLH09zUtgDRaa-EcRipYZBa5W9diercRXJmjr62mGsTMEtB0ZvvVAx1_kuq5TlIQT7Urmwo7yJ7lFB3o8gNFMhTK1jcQloZWuAPh3z_qQF0Q2c1eodU5_vprs4yMt/s1600/sma-si-parroquia10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="535" data-original-width="800" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaLpUw68vI-oFuyOhjLH09zUtgDRaa-EcRipYZBa5W9diercRXJmjr62mGsTMEtB0ZvvVAx1_kuq5TlIQT7Urmwo7yJ7lFB3o8gNFMhTK1jcQloZWuAPh3z_qQF0Q2c1eodU5_vprs4yMt/s320/sma-si-parroquia10.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ9OvA7AOUeZ9yHb845CUz4Cs4kwE-AUcizJ-9C2q2Euh0leuwTFqULg4YHL-SZIrjhYVrktRxFxxToE1tZnKGa8o5R_njt0fa9ZVunk1JcPen8aerl26_z5IT8qLXUslenCLIQBEbhhyphenhyphenA/s1600/IMG_20190311_171230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ9OvA7AOUeZ9yHb845CUz4Cs4kwE-AUcizJ-9C2q2Euh0leuwTFqULg4YHL-SZIrjhYVrktRxFxxToE1tZnKGa8o5R_njt0fa9ZVunk1JcPen8aerl26_z5IT8qLXUslenCLIQBEbhhyphenhyphenA/s320/IMG_20190311_171230.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"> The new facade was inspired by the great architectural works of Gothic style common
in Medieval Europe. Many intriguing tales exist regarding what inspired the
simple stonemason (<span style="background: white; color: black;">albañil</span> </span>in Spanish) to create the Gothic inspired structure.
We may never know exactly what happened. Some say Zeferino fashioned the design
after an image of the great Gothic Cathedral of Cologne in Germany that he had
seen on a postcard.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLvrAWgSq3-VruEd9q-nm7n0KBdM72Eb76kMzrXiJOX4IKjI2YdEx8zUXy_3tHBGI_5HUcR0hmnLcl2nTkuL5pa2stET4mmh1-MBg_zQh0IwfDZcR8a_Dak5cJ9nfIr4x_IrZ2ClCh7u08/s1600/download+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="400" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLvrAWgSq3-VruEd9q-nm7n0KBdM72Eb76kMzrXiJOX4IKjI2YdEx8zUXy_3tHBGI_5HUcR0hmnLcl2nTkuL5pa2stET4mmh1-MBg_zQh0IwfDZcR8a_Dak5cJ9nfIr4x_IrZ2ClCh7u08/s400/download+%25282%2529.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"> The Cathdral of Cologne</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Others suggest that he possessed engravings of the Cathedral
at Cologne and relied on them for reference. Some people recount the
oft-repeated story that Zeferino was seen tracing the plan for the Parroquia
with a stick in the red clay soil as a means of instructing the builders. This
primitive methodology does not seem plausible to me, but who am I to judge. The
towers, portal, niches, coral window, atrium, bell tower with clock and the
altars of the interior were transformed by this renovation.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPxfOk1y_LRCxM3T3VVTDu8PRuwkxJwPwnjYc6aMf0nxbgjhWsMg9sdpbjeN8ZEGmpFopfx5LPYtm7LChb7S66xRWJ-Wb1lnakNLv8cDp52PECt7wh8zoEpJQ-1iAUqjugPT5jo_VRL0gW/s1600/20190404_185718+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPxfOk1y_LRCxM3T3VVTDu8PRuwkxJwPwnjYc6aMf0nxbgjhWsMg9sdpbjeN8ZEGmpFopfx5LPYtm7LChb7S66xRWJ-Wb1lnakNLv8cDp52PECt7wh8zoEpJQ-1iAUqjugPT5jo_VRL0gW/s400/20190404_185718+%25281%2529.jpg" width="300" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"> The Clock Tower</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The selection
of an <span style="background: white; color: black;">albañil</span></span>
rather than an architect for the building project seems odd at first. After a
bit of research, I discovered that Zeferino Gutiérrez Muñoz had been
commissioned to renovate or build a couple of churches in nearby Dolores
Hidalgo in the state of Guanajuato. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"> Zeferino Gutiérrez Muñoz </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"> He was called to Dolores Hidalgo to replace
the wooden altarpiece for the Parroquia de Nuestra Senora de los Dolores with
one of cantera in a Neo-Classical style.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">The Parroquia de Nuestra Senora de los Dolores</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"> The Parroquia de Nuestra Senora de los
Dolores is historically important as the place where the shout for Mexican Independence
took place. He also designed and constructed El Templo de Nuestra Senora de la
Saleta in the Neo-Gothic style that was crowned with a splendid dome.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"> El Templo de Nuestra Senora de la Saleta in Dolores Hidalgo</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"> Here in
San Miguel, he designed the main altar of Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe in el
Templo de Oratorio and then dared to sign it at its base. This altar has since
been replaced by another. Concurrent with his work on el Templo de Oratorio, he
designed and built the main altar of el Templo de San Juan de Dios, where I
happen to attend mass on Sundays.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">The altar of Templo San Juan de Dios</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"> Zeferino also worked on the interior of Las
Monjas on Calle Canal. One of the first works he completed in the city of San
Miguel was the portico, stairway, and atrium of La Ermita on Salida de Queretaro back in 1876.
Despite his lack of formal training, he
had already established himself as a force to be reckoned with by the time he
was approached to design the now famous façade of the Parroquia.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large; line-height: 115%;">Zeferino Gutiérrez Muñoz constructed the façade with
cantera rosa, a volcanic rock that had been quarried locally at the base of an extinct volcano,
Palo Huerfano. The volcano is located between San Miguel de Allende and
Comonfort in Los Picachos Mountains.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large; line-height: 115%;">Initially, many critics found fault with the design,
suggesting that the dramatic Neo-Gothic style of the Parroquia did not integrate
well with the colonial square surrounding <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>it, that the vertical lines broke with the
horizontal lines that characterized the surrounding Colonial architecture.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large; line-height: 115%;"> It should
be acknowledged that this uniquely flamboyant structure has no equal and has become
an indestructible icon, an enduring symbol of the inherent charm of Central
Mexico. This striking edifice may be one of the reasons that our fair city
figures so prominently in Mexico’s current tourism boom. It features importantly
in the advertising designed to encourage tourists to visit San Miguel de Allende.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-48957862409599556732016-02-18T19:55:00.000-06:002016-02-18T21:33:25.849-06:00The Greater the Obstacle, the More Glory in Overcoming It: A Plea for Help for a Young Mexican Family“The greater the obstacle, the more glory in overcoming it.” <br />
― <a class="authorOrTitle" href="https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/29837.Moli_re">Molière</a> <br />
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Life provides many obstacles to overcome but, it also offers many opportunities for joy.<br />
A young Mexican family here in San Miguel de Allende has recently experienced the ecstatic joy of welcoming their firstborn into the world . Unfortunately, they have had to overcome innumerable challenges along the way. The young mother, Denis, had a difficult time retaining the pregnancy. On the 15th of January and just 6 months along in the pregnancy, Denis woke in the morning feeling a little strange. When she stood up, she discovered a watery discharge, indicating premature rupture of the protective membranes that surround the baby. At her father's urging, Denis rushed directly to hospital H+ to find out what had happened. She knew that this was not normal. The doctors made a diagnosis and explained that the situation was indeed very serious. The baby's life was in jeopardy and the child required the amniotic fluid to survive. The doctors prescribed complete bed rest . Despite complying, the fluid loss continued. In addition, the umbilical cord was wrapped around the child's neck making a natural birth very risky. To complicate matters even more, it was feared that the baby did not weigh enough to survive the trauma of birth.<br />
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<span lang="en"><span title="cuenta que la bebe tenia enredado el cordón umbilical y claro que la bebe aun no ganaba el
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<span lang="en"><span title="cuenta que la bebe tenia enredado el cordón umbilical y claro que la bebe aun no ganaba el
">On February 5th, Denis began to to experience labor pains. She underwent a caesarian section at H + Hospital in San Miguel. The baby was born and immediately transferred to the pediatric care unit to be assessed by the doctors. At birth, the child weighed 1,770 grams, extremely underweight for a newborn. Premature birth gives the baby less time to develop in the womb. Premature babies, especially those born earliest, often have complicated medical problems such as poor lung development.When the child was born , she was</span><span title="antecedentes y que se trataba de un caso de urgencia, corría en riesgo la vida e la bebe se
"> kept in an incubator, which is a bassinet enclosed in plastic with climate control equipment designed to keep the baby warm and limit her exposure to germs. Modern neonatal intensive care involves sophisticated measurement of temperature, respiration, cardiac function, oxygenation, and brain activity. The new baby's treatment included fluids and nutrition through intravenous catheters, oxygen supplementation, mechanical ventilation support, and medications.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="en"><span title="antecedentes y que se trataba de un caso de urgencia, corría en riesgo la vida e la bebe se
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<span lang="en"><span title="antecedentes y que se trataba de un caso de urgencia, corría en riesgo la vida e la bebe se
"><span title="había una deuda de mucho dinero por los cuidados de la bebe ya cuenta fue de $ 115,167.15,
"> The cost of this superior care came to $ 115,167.15 pesos or $ 6,347.43 U.S. While this seems to be a small price to pay for insuring the life of a young mother and child, the Mexican family was devastated when they received the bill. To put it in perspective, it should be noted that the minimum wage in Mexico is $4.03 per day.</span></span></span><br />
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<span lang="en"><span title="antecedentes y que se trataba de un caso de urgencia, corría en riesgo la vida e la bebe se
"><span title="había una deuda de mucho dinero por los cuidados de la bebe ya cuenta fue de $ 115,167.15,
"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSyoqmUSGpH_xYYIlv9W1ROq-sf2J7WphOJF-Ykeps_TrRKOsrIQODk63frXWtLMANdXxSwst_6ahnJhsP_AbYVrD4ge-Myx0Jmfqa92_hDZu-P2BlvZI8DhJ7QEI-fN0NX8HAQ0UkgNi8/s1600/IMG-20160217-WA0033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSyoqmUSGpH_xYYIlv9W1ROq-sf2J7WphOJF-Ykeps_TrRKOsrIQODk63frXWtLMANdXxSwst_6ahnJhsP_AbYVrD4ge-Myx0Jmfqa92_hDZu-P2BlvZI8DhJ7QEI-fN0NX8HAQ0UkgNi8/s320/IMG-20160217-WA0033.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></span></div>
<span lang="en"><span title="antecedentes y que se trataba de un caso de urgencia, corría en riesgo la vida e la bebe se
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<span lang="en"><span title="antecedentes y que se trataba de un caso de urgencia, corría en riesgo la vida e la bebe se
"><span title="había una deuda de mucho dinero por los cuidados de la bebe ya cuenta fue de $ 115,167.15,
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<span lang="en"><span title="antecedentes y que se trataba de un caso de urgencia, corría en riesgo la vida e la bebe se
"><span title="había una deuda de mucho dinero por los cuidados de la bebe ya cuenta fue de $ 115,167.15,
"> Denis and her husband, Jose Manuel, are nineteen and twenty-two years respectively. They have a small government insurance plan, Seguro Popular, but, it did not provide coverage for a private hospital stay or the specialized care needed by the child. The parents are both struggling students. They never anticipated the cost of the medical care as no one in their immediate circle of friends and family have ever had to experience such a catastrophe.</span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="en"><span title="antecedentes y que se trataba de un caso de urgencia, corría en riesgo la vida e la bebe se
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<span lang="en"><span title="antecedentes y que se trataba de un caso de urgencia, corría en riesgo la vida e la bebe se
"><span title="había una deuda de mucho dinero por los cuidados de la bebe ya cuenta fue de $ 115,167.15,
">I am recounting their story in the hopes that the reader might find it in his or her heart to donate a little bit of cash to help cover the cost of their crippling medical bills. If you feel so inclined, I have arranged a secure account </span></span></span>with GiveForward.com to accept donations. Here is the link if you decide to help <a href="https://pages.giveforward.com/medical/page-s1mrsx5/" target="_blank">https://pages.giveforward.com/<wbr></wbr>medical/page-s1mrsx5/</a></div>
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Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-27068618081085172892015-03-25T20:11:00.000-06:002015-03-27T09:07:05.074-06:00Just a Minute Longer,the Fountains of Alameda Park I've been quite remiss of late. I haven't posted a thing in over a year. Today, I was reviewing some photographs I took while visiting Alameda Park in Mexico City during a particularly balmy Easter week last year.<br />
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Bounded on the south by Avenida Juárez and on the north by Avenida Hidalgo, the Parque Alameda Central, is a shady and beautifully maintained green space with fine old trees, benches, numerous fountains decorated with mythological figures, and pieces of sculpture. It is situated next to the most beautiful building in Mexico City, the Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts). The park was originally constructed in 1592 and in pre-Columbian times had been a bustling market place . </div>
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The Alameda Central Park has been, since its creation, a place in which all classes of Mexican society come together as equals, a place in which people meet and happily coexist. The thing that really fascinated me about this space was the way that the local people interacted with the fountains with reckless abandon. We Americans tend to be a bit reserved in public. We shy away from being our true selves if we think that anyone might be watching. The Mexican people that I observed that day enjoying the cooling waters of the fountains appeared completely relaxed, without a care in the world..... such an enviable state! Perhaps, if I live in this idyllic place long enough, I too will find that level of comfort in my own skin. The following is a little verse that I wrote when I reviewed the pictures today.<br />
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Water, water everywhere </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6ZLnGgBMCWMWJCZZ33C4mag_avh5DzWbuKdlt6372NcJCOYjmBrofxihU7ohbb0jkoesrNNICd9irQc3A_taGDcWtx1NNOPEwGiIZwT4O0Umq6nKODozSne7gAhMGmnYbYEMJxY2qEFIk/s1600/Mexico+City+Easter+Week+090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6ZLnGgBMCWMWJCZZ33C4mag_avh5DzWbuKdlt6372NcJCOYjmBrofxihU7ohbb0jkoesrNNICd9irQc3A_taGDcWtx1NNOPEwGiIZwT4O0Umq6nKODozSne7gAhMGmnYbYEMJxY2qEFIk/s1600/Mexico+City+Easter+Week+090.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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..... cool.....clear elixir of life....I
celebrate <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>your <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>existence<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>on this toasty, sweaty summer day...... </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPETx4-PYyg_-T4HAQYonHhLalbBd7biMWk1UJY0ozZq7tc3Gt-SQlfSfYNxd_wwJX2OAHiE2udg0EY_rYQAZeERQT0N4rdu36wWpQPJuagVosCVaRXIJKNZDpD0G-bYJ1ebjRGUuFKE7i/s1600/Mexico+City+Easter+Week+093.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPETx4-PYyg_-T4HAQYonHhLalbBd7biMWk1UJY0ozZq7tc3Gt-SQlfSfYNxd_wwJX2OAHiE2udg0EY_rYQAZeERQT0N4rdu36wWpQPJuagVosCVaRXIJKNZDpD0G-bYJ1ebjRGUuFKE7i/s1600/Mexico+City+Easter+Week+093.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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your <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>chilly <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>touch on my <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>skin makes my heart leap for joy....each time I feel your soft caress, I squeal
like a<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>love sick teenager.</div>
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My insides
giggle <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>with excitement. My tummy jiggles like a
bowl full of tutti fruity jello. You stealthily sneak up on me, erupting <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>like a burping<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>geyser.... making me all misty-faced with your dewy droplets... evoking an exhilarating afternoon jaunt on the
Maid of the Mist .</div>
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I love when you tickle my tootsies and trickle lazily down
my<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>nose. You entice me to cavort like a loony,
stomping my feet not unlike a goofy toddler until the water licks my ankles<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>.....I prance around in silly circles......
hopping back and forth between the glistening droplets that sparkle like so
many crystal <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>chandeliers....</div>
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.... I like to
squish you between my toes...or poke my fingers over the water spout in joyful
anticipation of your imminent liberation.</div>
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I <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>loll about, akin to an over-fed calf in a field
of <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>fresh clover, making excuses to
stay" just a minute longer." Such a lucky girl am I.</div>
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<br />Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-67589145092204022942013-09-14T14:00:00.004-05:002013-10-01T13:23:28.115-05:00Why Are There So Many Saints In Mexico? or The Mexican Fascination with Pyrotechnics<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="background-color: #999999;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">When I hear the following words…..<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">bombas, cuetes,
fuegos artificiales, bottle rockets, fireworks</i></b>, or <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pyrotechnics</i></b>,
I immediately think of my Mexican neighbors. None of my previous life
experiences had prepared me for the Mexican obsession with things that “go
boom.” Everyone who moves to Mexico goes through some form of
culture shock……..my particular cross to bear appears to be connected to the
Mexican tradition of shooting off fireworks to celebrate any and all occasions.
No life event or ceremony is complete without the firing of rockets and <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the noisy commotion that goes along with it.
The Mexican people purchase pyrotechnics to celebrate the <span style="font-family: inherit;">birth</span> of a child,
christenings, anniversaries, weddings</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">, <span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Quinceañeras</span> (a fifteen year old girl's</span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">coming of age), <span style="font-family: inherit;">all Patron Saints connected to Catholicism, Mexico's Day of Independence (the biggest day for fireworks sales in Mexico), Christmas, New Years Eve, and one of the noisiest events, La Alborada (the Dawn). </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">More on
this event to follow</span>……</span></span><span style="font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="background-color: white;"> Incidentally, for Mexico’s recent Bicentennial
Celebration, held in the mainsquare in Mexico City, over 2,400 shells
were ignited to commemorate Father Miguel Hidalgo’s call for independence
from Spain.</span></span><span style="font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">My first nerve-wracking encounter with
this strange proclivity came suddenly while vacationing in San Miguel. I was attending
a lecture in the local library one afternoon. In the middle of the talk, four
thunderous claps resounded in rapid succession, interrupting the proceedings.
The noise was so deafening that one American woman ducked down, seeking cover,
as people of a certain generation were taught to do during an air-raid. She
mistakenly assumed that it was gunshots she was hearing, revealing the fear
that American newscasters have dutifully instilled in the minds of all visiting
Americans…. " that Mexico is a very dangerous place.” The amused speaker
giggled and assured her that it was safe to get up off the floor; it was simply
some fireworks on the street.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit; font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Shortly after moving to San Miguel de
Allende, I became acutely aware that for every Saint's feast day ( and there
are a lot of saints!), someone in the neighborhood finds it imperative to<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>set off a series of fireworks at the ungodly
hour of 6 A.M. The incessant ringing of church bells follows. The fireworks
awaken the roosters next door and all hell breaks loose.</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Mexico has a long history of fireworks
manufacturing, dating back to revolutionary times. In the northern suburb of
Mexico City there is a town that is famous for its fireworks. Tultepec refers
to itself as the "Pyrotechnics Capital" of Mexico. Most of the city’s
6000 residents earn their living from fireworks, working in small factories
that produce everything from firecrackers to 12-inch shells for fireworks
extravaganzas. There doesn’t appear to be a lot of government interference with
the manufacturing process. In addition, illegal fireworks production is
commonplace. As a result of some overzealous amateurs, there are a lot of
people in Mexico who are missing a digit or two and in some cases an arm.
Bottle rockets have been known to have rather unreliable fuses. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">According to various news <span style="font-family: inherit;">reports,</span> on
March 16th of this year, a truck loaded with fireworks exploded during a
religious procession in a rural village in central Mexico, killing at least 13
people and injuring a total of 154. The blast <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>was ignited when a rocket malfunctioned and hit
a truck, igniting the fireworks it carried.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I am sorry to report that human remains
and burned clothing were spread around a 100-yard area, including nearby rooftops.
Ironically, the victims were marching in an annual procession in honor of Jesus
Christ, the patron of Tepactepec.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666;"></span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit; font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Last year, a friend of mine posted a
picture on <i>Facebook</i> of a house in her neighborhood that had mysteriously
exploded. After Mexican authorities investigated, it was revealed that the home
was the site of a backyard chemist who had been dabbling in fireworks
manufacture.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisYd9fTOaw24urIIJkpafO_JnyPZ8x7M3Or_qLPCnHuKbFli4cjyzKoyQFRFjHzn7CwN03BhNluE9U7sHtHnEkCDTSHeMGu9bQ6uGv_9fZe6fus5OGE2xkKayqnm_SUBV6bWX6ADH1KmJW/s1600/575627_4950584284208_777151215_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisYd9fTOaw24urIIJkpafO_JnyPZ8x7M3Or_qLPCnHuKbFli4cjyzKoyQFRFjHzn7CwN03BhNluE9U7sHtHnEkCDTSHeMGu9bQ6uGv_9fZe6fus5OGE2xkKayqnm_SUBV6bWX6ADH1KmJW/s320/575627_4950584284208_777151215_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Mexican firework production includes a
variety of explosive products including rocas (rocks, a powerful
firecracker), vampiros (vampires), patas de mula (mule hoofs) , bombas (large
rockets) as well as frames with pyrotechnics called castillos (castles),
toritos (little bulls), canastillas (little baskets) as well as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Judas</i> figurines. Every Easter <span class="aqj">Sunday</span>, following days of solemn processions, the people of
San Miguel de Allende string up paper mache effigies of Judas as well as
various caricatures of local politicians that have disappointed the populace.
The figures are stuffed with explosives</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">
and ultimately are gleefully blown to smithereens.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #666666;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxvVaSHSKHV_lf8-U1ZPFz4Y__Y2VUeIbtUieoGV9EN6dBZqwDbldyKSQs5W9Hxes3B9EeRjhPo9Ibjlb7gzce5VOB2ZnkBSpj9h8lFKjlNu9pYCS4JbP47tJNmtfqTSwlG6OzwmiXu5p0/s1600/judas2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxvVaSHSKHV_lf8-U1ZPFz4Y__Y2VUeIbtUieoGV9EN6dBZqwDbldyKSQs5W9Hxes3B9EeRjhPo9Ibjlb7gzce5VOB2ZnkBSpj9h8lFKjlNu9pYCS4JbP47tJNmtfqTSwlG6OzwmiXu5p0/s320/judas2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> Some people might refer to
this act as poetic justice.</span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #666666; font-family: Calibri;">Check out Berkely Roberts video of this event</span><br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaLJUTRgeYE">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaLJUTRgeYE</a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span> </div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666;"></span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #666666;"> </span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666;"></span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> </span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 11pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Castillos
are large wooden, metal, or bamboo frames covered with dazzling flares. They
are constructed to honor patron saints or Mexico’s heroes of Independence.</span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7zgJRF_qV5uvmULY6F62oJQhWoVTVXJfEOLO1S0FMGplpF1el9_aGrxGnhXAPhLLetoyi9EMtw9FE_J6Znsp1GYKCM_4B54rbgDMrDEtE25s0WqJ30Xu3_cNdlxWWknufDx-z7l7pK85V/s1600/220px-Castillo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7zgJRF_qV5uvmULY6F62oJQhWoVTVXJfEOLO1S0FMGplpF1el9_aGrxGnhXAPhLLetoyi9EMtw9FE_J6Znsp1GYKCM_4B54rbgDMrDEtE25s0WqJ30Xu3_cNdlxWWknufDx-z7l7pK85V/s1600/220px-Castillo.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> </span><span style="color: #666666; font-family: inherit; font-size: 11pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Toritos are smaller
frames fashioned in the shape of a bull, designed to be worn or carried by a
person as they are set afire.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl9p9D4JtWV4tSvthmF72o1wdtjOTCbkX6vq8Rbewt8HAw8XT2bU3nCZR5rpkk3y_CiNjrWHsd7EpB6hQoan2zmCRoU3dRnvegmBdPL20e_c7ZtY6HSMNZzniN1qcxL3GbAgdOFAneUxic/s1600/torito02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl9p9D4JtWV4tSvthmF72o1wdtjOTCbkX6vq8Rbewt8HAw8XT2bU3nCZR5rpkk3y_CiNjrWHsd7EpB6hQoan2zmCRoU3dRnvegmBdPL20e_c7ZtY6HSMNZzniN1qcxL3GbAgdOFAneUxic/s320/torito02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> <span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The “lucky” wearer traditionally chases terrified
bystanders. A version of the torito is designed to release candy when ignited,
having the questionable effect of encouraging children to run towards it,
rather than away from it.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit; font-size: 11pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">The most unique product is called a “piromusical” a series of
fireworks synchronized to recorded music and lights.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHv7yqyDgBFXRciZtm5bi_lUGMKrXZOto4gIMdyqB3XwF4bLfoz0iLhLz-rUDo7UpLbrUxmQ1BLWy5mxPTRGSNEIx8EhSFYerJgQxpgITSqD-xbDffkDsuoWsYRT2iuiek3LkNwLTOtAmh/s1600/firework-series8-640x512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHv7yqyDgBFXRciZtm5bi_lUGMKrXZOto4gIMdyqB3XwF4bLfoz0iLhLz-rUDo7UpLbrUxmQ1BLWy5mxPTRGSNEIx8EhSFYerJgQxpgITSqD-xbDffkDsuoWsYRT2iuiek3LkNwLTOtAmh/s320/firework-series8-640x512.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><o:p> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo Credit: Thomas Prior</span></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjomQwm7z12owwkQtY1HfkvLEukRbzC0AnKX96uClgCtVNyVs2pAuuqS8VeEr9XicgJTT7UzMrywrz4CwcMvr_N_zGKndwamxz-C2Mo1-xUOpmhCVtp6_D0MiQK6JArDe0ra5fJIwoObCyk/s1600/crazy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="139" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjomQwm7z12owwkQtY1HfkvLEukRbzC0AnKX96uClgCtVNyVs2pAuuqS8VeEr9XicgJTT7UzMrywrz4CwcMvr_N_zGKndwamxz-C2Mo1-xUOpmhCVtp6_D0MiQK6JArDe0ra5fJIwoObCyk/s320/crazy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvkXm6TosjrR3ZGEBpELpsw8ErYrgUGqjQp1RS4xtYLjMtMJfUdOXmPuMtJTAvX9K-7V_uhGqCqFk-gLFhI14yCICG-NcOtuM9JnclH5mqAVWEZZGVrKThTvDTILc5SL2pRwVXScZdI0jo/s1600/firework-series6-640x512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvkXm6TosjrR3ZGEBpELpsw8ErYrgUGqjQp1RS4xtYLjMtMJfUdOXmPuMtJTAvX9K-7V_uhGqCqFk-gLFhI14yCICG-NcOtuM9JnclH5mqAVWEZZGVrKThTvDTILc5SL2pRwVXScZdI0jo/s320/firework-series6-640x512.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjquT5kxrsO8_EtBYK5ddhl84xcm-mSRekvZUuI8c8VEl3aPcQ8qmm6bWqHd7UIovLtfMkw2xdcL9Nj8uVCVo-y-q-eeQufEzajaH113TGZmFlA6aT7AnOUK-vWDDmU7NeeAx1PxSnWOwJz/s1600/firework-series11-640x512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjquT5kxrsO8_EtBYK5ddhl84xcm-mSRekvZUuI8c8VEl3aPcQ8qmm6bWqHd7UIovLtfMkw2xdcL9Nj8uVCVo-y-q-eeQufEzajaH113TGZmFlA6aT7AnOUK-vWDDmU7NeeAx1PxSnWOwJz/s320/firework-series11-640x512.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo Credit: Thomas Prior</span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit; font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">An excellent example of my continuing
culture shock occurred a few years ago. I attended a Mexican wedding that was
being held in a banquet hall. At some point in the evening, the house lights
were lowered. The guests quietly waited in nervous anticipation. Much to
my surprise, fireworks had been attached to the floor and were rigged to
explode at a particularly poignant moment during the ceremony. No one was
prepared for what happened next. The rockets shot up, bounced off the ceiling,
and back down to the tile floor, igniting the bride’s train. The groom was seen
acting as unpaid firefighter, stamping out the blaze with his shiny patent
leather dress shoes.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666;"></span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="background-color: #999999;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn86w_micTfU8yM-kEjnbP7-h-qOU7dB2uiXr86Ac7ZwbGJDp5h_2P-k0oVt6EHkZvfefG9Kw3Aog09VHLeibwnhWh-_Su-9T9k3-7XAXIEoq6seN3leVjBGZi2jPvcFLPuZLU85oMbPR1/s1600/IMG_1998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn86w_micTfU8yM-kEjnbP7-h-qOU7dB2uiXr86Ac7ZwbGJDp5h_2P-k0oVt6EHkZvfefG9Kw3Aog09VHLeibwnhWh-_Su-9T9k3-7XAXIEoq6seN3leVjBGZi2jPvcFLPuZLU85oMbPR1/s320/IMG_1998.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="color: #666666;">Recently, I witnessed a more successful
attempt at indoor pyrotechnics at my maid’s daughter’s</span> </span><span lang="EN" style="font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Quinceañera</span></span><span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="color: #666666;">. Rosita wore a fabulous hoop dress
reminiscent of <i>Gone with the Wind</i> and was attended by several handsome
young men dressed in shimmering, silver, shark-skin suits, as the picture
indicates</span>. </span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit; font-size: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">They performed a series of synchronized dance routines reminiscent
of Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers, culminating in a burst of dazzling
pyrotechnics.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO5lrdjDPJWjYjTtymrSe3O_LaJGFeBVoGSrah-1-MQ87J3MlRk8PwIISB1iN9_aO6KLjfiuexq2VV5-aZ_ytItmxnQRwffsQTE9RNzrTREdwJEkDhorIISQ2Jwg7k7Vk-vRt604rll339/s1600/IMG_2002+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO5lrdjDPJWjYjTtymrSe3O_LaJGFeBVoGSrah-1-MQ87J3MlRk8PwIISB1iN9_aO6KLjfiuexq2VV5-aZ_ytItmxnQRwffsQTE9RNzrTREdwJEkDhorIISQ2Jwg7k7Vk-vRt604rll339/s320/IMG_2002+(2).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit;">As mentioned earlier, one of the most dramatic fireworks
exhibitions occurs every year in San Miguel at the end of September. The event
is referred to as La Alborada.<strong><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> </span></strong>La
Alborada is a special occasion that marks the beginning of the celebration to
honor St. Michael the Archangel, the patron saint of our fair city. Lasting
more than eight hours, processions begin in some of the older neighborhoods in the
city. In the various communities, people start gathering at <span class="aqj">10pm</span>, and until <span class="aqj">2:00 in the morning</span>, they feast on
traditional food and listen to music. At approximately <span class="aqj">3am</span>, a procession made up of <em><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">mojigangas</span></em><em><span style="font-style: normal; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> (giant dancing puppet figures)</span></em>, musicians, and big wooden
stars on poles, jauntily decorated with colored paper, leave the neighborhoods
and begin the trek towards the center of the city.</span> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo Credit: Michael Amici</span></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit;">When the processions reach the central town square, the
launching of fireworks begins around <span class="aqj">4
A.</span>M. and continues for two full hours.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo Credit: Michael Amici</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit;">I am afraid that I
have only had the courage to watch this spectacle from the safety of my
terrace, far from the crush of the citizenry. I have heard people’s eye-witness
accounts of individuals being hit by flaming bottle rockets and stray embers.
This is quite understandable given the display is directly overhead. Part of
the frenzied show includes the shooting of thousands of bottle rockets by
approximately ten young men placed strategically behind the churchyard fence.
The rockets are hurled in the direction of the bystanders.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo Credit: Michael Amici</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit;">Part of the fun
involves scurrying around to avoid being hit by one of the flaming rockets. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit;">The
more savvy citizens come prepared for battle, shielding themselves with
cardboard boxes and umbrellas. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An
unknowing friend wore a chiffon blouse to her first Alborada and returned with
a few holes she hadn’t planned on.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you are
considering a visit, it might be advisable to wear some flame-retardant
clothing. While this event is not for the faint of heart, my thrill seeking
husband swears that it is a great time and shouldn't be missed.<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><br />
<span style="color: #666666; font-family: inherit;">Here is a link to a very professional video by Miguel Fernandez capturing some of the festivities associated with the Feast of Saint Michael the Archangel, shot here in San Miguel.......</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpb5fA2KhQE">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpb5fA2KhQE</a><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-34444750878607309032013-02-20T14:22:00.001-06:002013-10-01T13:25:24.944-05:00The Monarch Butterflies of Michoacan<br />
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<span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Butterflies<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></h1>
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<span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size: small;">by: </span></span><a href="http://www.blackcatpoems.com/b/mary_dow_brine.html"><span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size: small;">Mary Dow Brine</span></span></a><span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;"> (1816-1913)<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></h3>
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<span style="color: white; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 8.5pt;">butter<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Creatures of golden, sunshiny weather,<br />Coquetting with blossoms for hours together!<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></h2>
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<span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Happiest ever when skies are blue,<br />And sunshine your merriest moments woo!<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></h2>
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<span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Bright-robed and beautiful, artless and gay,<br />Merrily idling the summer away.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></h2>
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<span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Much ye remind me, butterflies bright,<br />Of a winsome maiden, with heart as light<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></h2>
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<span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">And fickle as yours, as the days go by;<br />Fit for only a sunshiny sky!<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></h2>
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<span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Coquetting with hearts and love awhile,<br />Then off and away with a careless smile.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></h2>
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<span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">But when the summer at last has fled,<br /><em><span style="font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif";">Butterflies' holiday</span></em>, too, lies dead. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></h2>
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Butterflies are everywhere in Mexico, once you really start paying attention. During this time of year,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I often see them fluttering about in my garden lured by the colorful <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>lantana bushes. They appear as intricate tattoos on young women's torsos,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and frequently play a starring role in local artwork. </div>
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I have been on many adventures in Mexico but few that have been as renewing as my latest trip to the beautiful state of Michoacan. Two weeks ago I left San Miguel de Allende, along with a contingent of twenty five adults and children, on a long anticipated pilgrimage to see the billions of monarch butterflies who make their winter home in the area's boreal forests. Monarch butterflies spend their summers in the United States but, have you ever wondered where they go in the fall when the cool winds descend and chilly winter is just around the corner? The Monarch butterfly is susceptible to the cold winters of the northern climes so in an act of self-preservation, they migrate south and hibernate every fall and winter. Monarchs east of the Rocky Mountains<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>migrate 2500 miles on their tiny wings to the Oyamel fir trees of Mexico. Their flight to Mexico's forests can be compared to the annual migration of birds flying south for the winter.</div>
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The monarchs' winter vacation spot is a 60-square-mile area in Central Mexico's volcanic highlands. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This region is 129 miles west of Mexico City situated near the small former mining town of Angangueo in the state of Michoacán. <br />
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This charming, traditional colonial village, at an elevation of 8,400 feet, is composed of <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>winding cobblestone streets and quaint little white stucco homes with red-tiled roofs. The houses are adorned with terracotta<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>flower pots brimming with red and pink geraniums. Clotheslines are strung across rooftops, laden with brightly colored children's clothing flapping in the breezes. <br />
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This area's <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>geography is part of the<span style="color: black;"> </span><span style="color: #666666;">Trans-Mexican </span><span style="color: #666666; mso-themecolor: text1; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">Volcanic Belt</span> and the Sierra de Angangueo. Some locations receive rain only in the summer and others all year round making for<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>luscious green vegetation. The area is mostly covered in forests of conifers with pines, <span style="color: #666666; mso-themecolor: text1; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">oyamel</span> and juniper as well as mixed forests of conifers with broad-leafed trees such as cedar. Much of the municipality is part of the Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve. <br />
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There is one main road in Angangueo, which is called both Nacional and Morelos. This road meanders its way up the canyon and ends at the Plaza de la Constitución. The main plaza is flanked by two churches, the parish of San Simón and the Inmaculada Concepcíon.<br />
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The Inmaculada Concepción church was built by a single family, in pink stone in the Gothic style in an attempt to imitate Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris, France.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When someone from my party inquired about the odd placement of two churches in such close proximity to each other, two local men, who were lounging in front of a large wrought-iron gazebo, informed us that "one church was for the rich folks and one for the poor."<br />
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One of the unexpected highlights of the trip was a visit to the ex-hacienda, Jesus Nazareno, located on the way into town.<br />
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It's ageing, crumbling walls, strategically placed high on a hill, were quite picturesque, serving as a lasting reminder of a by-gone era.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhINWPOlT_DBj5Q00X6ABvhdWEtVduFqSUvlnOdxCNU5eW_Jk07QjyQkDU7zDABWYFlJIBBCWeEhUBAU7Ut4ZsAPkkfwSYr_UJuywCshd8l7IWpePk9IOr8rmQ_f3YiBuo4sOUNQ-42gPI3/s1600/IMG_1823.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhINWPOlT_DBj5Q00X6ABvhdWEtVduFqSUvlnOdxCNU5eW_Jk07QjyQkDU7zDABWYFlJIBBCWeEhUBAU7Ut4ZsAPkkfwSYr_UJuywCshd8l7IWpePk9IOr8rmQ_f3YiBuo4sOUNQ-42gPI3/s320/IMG_1823.JPG" width="240" /></a> One of the most lovely features of the property was a beautifully maintained chapel with an intricate hand painted design on the ceiling. An old woman sat outside the chapel, selling the drink-pulque <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to anyone with a spirit for adventure.<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Pulque</span> is an alchoholic beverage made from the <span style="color: #666666;">fermented sap</span> of the <span style="color: #666666;"><span style="color: #666666; mso-themecolor: text1; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">maguey plant</span>.</span> It is traditional to central Mexico, where it has been produced for many centuries. It has the color of milk and has a somewhat off-putting consistency. <span style="color: #666666;">Pulque</span> is quite viscous with a sour, yeast-like taste. It looks a little like someone has just spit into a cup, if you ask me.<br />
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When our stomachs began to grumble, the entire group eagerly descended on a teeny, tiny restaurant on the main road into town.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWHOYZ5ADExS4hlH9hoDMAcYSaQZFbIO006x4pLSmvImnx47dCwmZ9Q0_dgVpLR1Mj3Lby_EhJet79sYdMkJEs4l_OTz2BvhtvQvVz2g3p1NmnQzKLBUt87yBGcJhPmxYS9EOXZItuY1-N/s1600/IMG_1811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWHOYZ5ADExS4hlH9hoDMAcYSaQZFbIO006x4pLSmvImnx47dCwmZ9Q0_dgVpLR1Mj3Lby_EhJet79sYdMkJEs4l_OTz2BvhtvQvVz2g3p1NmnQzKLBUt87yBGcJhPmxYS9EOXZItuY1-N/s320/IMG_1811.JPG" width="320" /></a> The proprietor, Wily, was very welcoming and ushered us to the back of the restaurant and right out the backdoor. Behind the restaurant, the owner was in the process of building<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a new dining room. He and his staff set about quickly, gathering chairs and tables from far and wide in an effort to accommodate our large party in the half finished concrete structure. Lunch was tasty and reasonably fast. People devoured large sandwiches filled with chicken or beef milanese or plates of carne asada (grilled beef), served with rice and beans. Pitchers of home-made lemonade and beer were consumed with gusto. <br />
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Next, we hopped into our cars and began the steep ascent up the mountain in an effort to check out the site of the El Rosario Butterfly Sanctuary. My friend's 4-cyclinder vehicle struggled to make the the climb with five people and a pile of luggage in tow. The view through the pines of the surrounding mountains was absolutely breathtaking.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OlaC-8r0EtE/USPg8IUwzcI/AAAAAAAAAmU/GpQpb00dHcQ/s1600/IMG_1876.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OlaC-8r0EtE/USPg8IUwzcI/AAAAAAAAAmU/GpQpb00dHcQ/s320/IMG_1876.JPG" width="320" /></a> When we reached the sanctuary staging area, we were greeted by a gaggle of little children selling a variety of touristy goods, things like tiny butterfly earrings, refrigerator magnets, t-shirts, hand-embroidered tablecloths, napkins, table runners, and other items of that ilk. My favorite handicraft were some intricately hand-woven pine needle baskets. I met a woman who kindly offered to demonstrate how she made the baskets and her hands were deeply calloused from the process.<br />
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Her daughters assisted her, fetching us every style that she made. Her youngest daughter was my favorite. She had a very dirty face, punctuated <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>with an extremely runny nose and blackberry stained mouth. She was just precious.<br />
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Three little boys approached me, singing an unrecognizable ditty in hopes of wrangling some spare change. It worked, I succumbed without so much as a grumble.<br />
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There were a number of cook tents and shacks devoted to feeding the masses of people who descend on the sanctuary during the winter months. The ladies who worked there were cooking over archaic-looking wood burning stoves fitted with comals.<br />
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They were selling blackberry atole, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>hand-made blue corn quesadillas filled with huitlacoche or flor de calabaza, and roasted ears of tender white corn slathered in mayonnaise and cheese. <br />
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Atole is a traditional<span style="color: #666666;"> masa-based</span> hot beverage common in Mexico. The drink typically includes masa (corn <span style="color: #666666; mso-themecolor: text1; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">hominy</span> flour), water, <span style="color: #666666;"><span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="color: #666666;">piloncillo</span> </span></span>(unrefined cane sugar), cinnamon, vanilla and optional chocolate or fruit. The mixture is blended and heated before serving. It is classic Mexican street food at its finest. Huitlacoche is a fungus that grows on corn and flor de calabaza are squash blossoms.</div>
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After spending a delightful evening of wine drinking and tale telling in front of a roaring fire, our <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>group <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>rose early the next morning and returned to El Rosario Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary to begin the hour-long trek to see the butterflies. <br />
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The morning air that greeted us was quite chilly and we started out wearing multiple layers of sweaters and jackets. As soon as we began, I knew that I was in trouble. The air is thin at 8,989 feet<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and I spotted a sign that stated that we were climbing to the height of 11,942 feet where the air gets even thinner. The beginning of the walk was not terrible as there were shallow steps that eased my discomfort. But these soon fell away to reveal a dirt path that endlessly snaked through the hills. You do have the option of hiring a horse for half the journey but, the horses don't go the distance and I certainly needed the exercise. <br />
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The signage along the way reminded me about the life cycle of the butterfly -the four stages—from egg to caterpillar to chrysalis to the winged creature we are most familiar with. I considered the wonder of this<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>magical transformation and the even more astounding phenomenon of the butterfly's migratory cycle.</div>
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More than once I was tempted to whine like a child and ask, "Are we there yet?" Towards the end of the trail I was more than a little winded. The terrain had gotten very steep and there was nothing to hold onto. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had to resort to side stepping to lug my old carcass the last few feet to where the crowd had settled. I found the younger folks already perched on the hillside with cameras at the ready. Everyone was speaking in hushed whispers so as not to disturb the sleeping masses of butterflies that covered the towering trees. The <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>invigorating scent of pine needles wafted through the crisp morning air. </div>
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It took a while for the show to begin. As spectators, we watched with rapt attention as the morning sun began to filter through the canopy, hitting the tree branches that were sagging heavily under the cumulative weight of <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>thousands of butterflies. The Monarchs covered every square inch of the surrounding pine trees.<br />
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They were clumped together in great masses with a weight so burdensome that the trees appeared to be covered with carpeting. Slowly, as the sun warmed their wings, the butterflies began to wake up from their slumber and began their flirtatious dance. One butterfly fluttered by, and then another and <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>then another. Soon, there were so many flitting about against the backdrop of the bright blue sky that it looked a bit like orange snowflakes dancing above our heads. The brilliant tangerine color of the butterflies blanketing the trees brought back fond memories of the autumn colors of the local maple trees back in my old stomping grounds in Western New York. If you listened very closely, the fluttering of thousands of <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>wings made a sound a bit like a soft rain hitting the trees.<br />
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A butterfly <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>came in for a landing on a nearby woman's back and people stopped and stared in disbelief, fascinated by its close proximity.<br />
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The butterflies were soon everywhere, landing on people's heads, feet, and fingers. Children and adults alike giggled with pure delight. My thoughts wandered to stories of woodland faeries from my youth. I could imagine the origin of the tales, as the dancing monarchs possess such a magical quality.</div>
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Eventually, hunger got the better of me and I began the slow descent back to the car. By the time I reached the bottom, my legs felt like jello and shook just as much. This truly was a life changing experience and should be on everyone's bucket list.</div>
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Sadly, it has come to my attention that a great deal of deforestation has occurred<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in this part of the world as a result of illegal logging in the protected preserve. I can only<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>hope that the Mexican government can get a handle on the practice or the worst case scenario could happen....the butterflies will have to find a new winter home and this beautiful marvel of nature will be just a distant memory.</div>
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Here's a link to a website that will explain the vital function of the oyamel forest in protecting the butterflies from freezing.</div>
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<a href="http://www.learner.org/jnorth/tm/monarch/SanctuaryFactsOyamel.html"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>http://www.learner.org/jnorth/tm/monarch/SanctuaryFactsOyamel.html</a></div>
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Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-73523336876940214852013-01-16T17:26:00.001-06:002013-01-22T09:33:53.816-06:00In Guad We Trust<span style="font-family: Verdana;"></span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;">Living in Mexico has brought many surprises. One very special phenomenon that bears a mention is the manner in which the Mexican people revere Our Lady of Guadalupe. One can't help notice her ever-present existence in the minds and hearts of every Mexican national. Her shining image appears everywhere.... on bumper stickers, baseball caps, wallets, car windshields, truck mud flaps, mirrors, keychains,</span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;">taquerias, jewelry, t-shirts, scapulas, votive candles,</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EwF_yIwXqmQ/UPctzghblwI/AAAAAAAAAeM/e62AK4n4z6E/s1600/tumblr_lkynojANiw1qa2x7bo1_500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EwF_yIwXqmQ/UPctzghblwI/AAAAAAAAAeM/e62AK4n4z6E/s320/tumblr_lkynojANiw1qa2x7bo1_500.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"> <span style="color: #666666; font-size: small;">and the most obvious place....church altars. Her saintly memory lives on, gracing young men's chests and biceps in the form of elaborate tattoos,</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;">as well as in people's kitchens, her angelic face decorating dinner plates, napkins, and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>kitchen aprons. The beautiful Lady's image even appears as life-sized murals on people's houses who hope that it's presence might discourage vandalism and graffiti.</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-StTXitNbq7c/UPctb7jju0I/AAAAAAAAAdk/waiFa53oNNs/s1600/SanMiguelJune20122079a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-StTXitNbq7c/UPctb7jju0I/AAAAAAAAAdk/waiFa53oNNs/s320/SanMiguelJune20122079a.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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photographed at the home of local artist, <strong>Anado McLauchlin</strong></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Every December 12th, Mexicans celebrate La Virgen Morena or La Virgen de Guadalupe, also known as Tonatzin, Mother of all Gods.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">I think it is rather important for my fellow ex-pats to understand the culture of the people that<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>they live with everyday. So here goes. As legend has it, on December 9, 1531 a humble Nahuatl Indian named Juan Diego was walking past the sacred hill of Tepeyac, on the northern edge of Tenochtitlan (close to what is now Mexico City) when he heard sweet sounds that brought to mind the singing of many<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>heavenly birds. As he looked towards the summit, he glimpsed a brilliant white cloud with light as bright as a thousand suns and surrounded by a rainbow. As he watched in awe, a beautiful lady appeared in lustrous garments. The lady told him, </span><span style="line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span><br /><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<strong><i><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">“I am the Ever-Virgin Holy Mary, Mother of the God of Great Truth.”</span></i></strong><b><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></b><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: small;">(Nican Mopohua, 16th century Nahuatl document)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span><br /><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Our Lady of Guadalupe instructed Juan Diego to tell the bishop in Tenochtitlan that she wanted a church to be built on the hill to serve as a source of loving compassion to all who seek her guidance. Juan Diego followed her request and gave her message to the bishop, who was too busy to listen to the raging of a poor, indigenous man and promptly sent him away. Juan Diego returned to Tepeyac the same day and pleaded with Our Lady to find a more appropriate messenger, someone who might be believed. She advised him to return to the bishop and tell him that he was sent by “the Ever-Virgin Mary, the Mother of the God Teotl.” (Teotl is <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the God or Goddess head of the Nahuatl-Aztecs).</span><o:p></o:p></span></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><br /><span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This time, the bishop told Juan Diego to return to him with a sign that would validate his claims. The Virgin reappeared to Juan Diego, and told him to scale the hill and gather the flowers growing at the top. Once there, he found roses which were blooming mysteriously. They were a variety of roses only found in Spain that could not have bloomed in chilly December at such a high elevation. Juan Diego picked the roses and collected them into his tilma, a cloak woven of maguey (maguey is a plant common to Mexico that is also the source for the alcoholic beverage, pulque). The lady instructed him not to open his tilma for anyone until he was in the company of the bishop.</span></span><o:p></o:p><br /><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3mLJ9PBTkXY/UPctuqIaHqI/AAAAAAAAAeA/zePFLA4IxDA/s1600/tilma_painting.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3mLJ9PBTkXY/UPctuqIaHqI/AAAAAAAAAeA/zePFLA4IxDA/s320/tilma_painting.gif" width="184" /></a></div>
<br /><span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">When Juan Diego returned to the bishop’s office and opened his tilma, the miraculous roses tumbled to the floor, <br />revealing an image of Our Lady inexplicably embossed <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>on the tilma, serving as unquestionable proof of her existence. The bishop and his assistants fell to their knees and cried for forgiveness to the Blessed Virgin. Later that day, the bishop journeyed to Tepeyac to see exactly where Our Lady had appeared, and before long the church and hermitage were built. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This site is <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the current location of the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe. One can visit this site today and see the original Tilma displayed.</span><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7aumjvhoO7c/UPcs9I05mHI/AAAAAAAAAc0/fOoxLs5CK7k/s1600/250px-Our_Lady_of_Guadalupe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7aumjvhoO7c/UPcs9I05mHI/AAAAAAAAAc0/fOoxLs5CK7k/s320/250px-Our_Lady_of_Guadalupe.jpg" width="240" /></span></a><br /><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> It is worth noting that this story led to thousand of conversions to Christianity and established<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Catholicism as the primary religion in Mexico.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br /><span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">So where is all this leading?.....to my humble experience in the hood, my little colonia, Olimpo. My neighbors take great pride in celebrating this great lady and the festivities go</span> <span style="color: #666666;">on for days. <span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">We have a total of three shrines to the Virgin in my little corner of the world. Each shrine is unique. </span></span></span><br /><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span></span><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">The artists paint the lady in similar fashion but, they tend to have a signature style that shines through. Each shelter that is built to surround the lady is different and very special. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The shrines are lovingly cared for by the local people throughout the year. Bouquets of fresh flowers and candles appear on a regular basis.</span><br /><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--GJV0LWjCh0/UPcwMR-FFHI/AAAAAAAAAik/lpEINuYV-4M/s1600/IMG_1655.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--GJV0LWjCh0/UPcwMR-FFHI/AAAAAAAAAik/lpEINuYV-4M/s320/IMG_1655.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> <span style="color: #666666;">The shrine around the corner from my house even boasts a working fountain with live gold fish. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br /><span style="color: #666666;"></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V-9GqNr6_f0/UPcwPwOv9EI/AAAAAAAAAi0/PHBCh2h0Hrw/s1600/IMG_1657.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V-9GqNr6_f0/UPcwPwOv9EI/AAAAAAAAAi0/PHBCh2h0Hrw/s320/IMG_1657.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span><br /><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Preparations<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>for this special day begin approximately a week before December 12th. All the neighbors bring pictures of the Virgin (dramatic images in guilt frames that normally hang<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in a place of honor in their homes) to the shrine. These pictures of the lady along with photographs of the Pope are lined up against the wall and arranged in a pleasing fashion. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">In our naivety, the first time my husband and I saw this practice from a<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>distance, we both thought that they were conducting an art sale. It wasn't until we got closer that we realized our mistake. Colorful paper pennants flap in the breezes, strung from house to house.</span></span> <span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-om1fCzf_-Tg/UPcwb6On2AI/AAAAAAAAAjU/VJd49lYOLC0/s1600/IMG_1669.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-om1fCzf_-Tg/UPcwb6On2AI/AAAAAAAAAjU/VJd49lYOLC0/s320/IMG_1669.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> <span style="color: #666666;">A schedule appears on the wall which acknowledges the ladies of the neighborhood <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>who<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>will be leading the various prayer services for the week. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br /><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Next, benches appear where worshipers can gather to pray to our lady. Two days before the event, enthusiastic young men erect a greased pole, the width and height of a telephone pole, in the vacant lot at the corner. It will be used for a unique game called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">palo encebado</i>. </span><br /><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">The game involves young boys who struggle to climb the length of the pole to reach the top, where a special prize has been attached. Usually there are many failed attempts and much excitement before the young lads figure out a scheme where working cooperatively, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>they climb atop each other's shoulders to reach the pinnacle to collect the treasure. Getting down is the most thrilling part of the<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>event. The larger boys gather at the bottom of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the pole and encourage the fellow<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>at the top to slide down the lard covered pole at breakneck speed like a fireman racing to a fire, in hopes of being caught at the last second. The only thought that occurred for me the first time I saw this happening was , "this stuff could only happen in Mexico" and "where's his helmet?"<o:p></o:p></span></span> <span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span><br /><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">On the day before the 12th, things move into full gear. The truck carrying an enormous rented sound system arrives as well as the sawhorses that will prevent cars from disrupting the proceedings.</span></span>
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<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> <span style="color: #666666;">Firecrackers ( referred to as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">fuegos artificiales</i> in these parts) begin to explode every few minutes. Their thunderous cracks set off my dogs, as they don't seem to appreciate the noise that reverberates off the concrete buildings. One dog hides under the bed while another runs to his post on the stairs where he answers the call with his high-pitched bark. The blaring ranchero music, that takes me back <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to the days when I<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>danced the Polka back in Buffalo (the trigger is probably the accordions), begins in earnest and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>people congregate for dancing and singing. This year was particularly joyful in that<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>we experienced a Locos parade that went down my street and then later, four hours of Indian drumming commenced.</span></span><br /><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> </span><br /><br /><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";">The Indians wore elaborate costumes made of deerskin with headpieces constructed of feathers and animal bones. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";"></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";"></span><br /><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";">They smeared war paint on their faces and arms and rythmically pounded enormous drums as they whirled about, dancing to the beat with practiced intensity. Even a tiny baby was seen strapped to one of the warrior's back, dressed in full regalia.<o:p></o:p></span></span> <span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br /><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";">Later, the Locos (men dressed as women and various cartoon characters) staged a special dance. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";"></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";"></span><br /><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";"><span style="color: #666666;">As a bystander, I was almost dragged into the fray by an overly enthusiastic reveler. After my loud objections, I was reluctantly allowed to continue on my way. One enterprising individual had the presence of mind to erect a taco stand, doling out carnitas and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>beverages to<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the throng. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The music continued for<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>two days and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>throughout the following night. As I drifted off to dreamland that evening, after much tossing and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>turning as well as a fair bit of grumbling, the last thing I heard were the strains of the ever popular birthday song, </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;"><span style="color: #666666;">Las Mañanitas. Upon waking the next morning, to my surprise, that same tune was still playing. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>guess the disc jockey had gone home to his family but, had forgotten to turn off the music. An hour later, on my way to the corner store for a carton of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>milk, I couldn't help</span> <span style="color: #666666;">giggling at the sight of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>one last straggler who<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>had finally succumb to all the fun and frivolity and possibly a bit too much tequila. He was blissfully asleep, curled up like a <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>cat at the base of the Virgin's feet, oblivious to the world around<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>him.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br /><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">My plan for next year's party......a<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>nice pair of earplugs.</span><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span><br /><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span></span><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
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</span><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span><br />Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-24909038127672747642012-08-06T01:27:00.000-05:002012-08-07T12:45:39.455-05:00Las Posas, Edward James' Surrealist Garden<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
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<span class="line1"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #444444;">While thrashing about in the <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the jungle recently, the following tune interrupted my revelry. The mind is a funny thing. There's no telling what event will trigger a song that drifts into one's consciousness.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span class="line1"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Calibri;">A-weema-weh, a-weema-weh, a-weema-weh, a-weema-weh, a-weema-weh, a-weema-weh, a-weema-weh, a-weema-weh.</span></span></span><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #444444;"><span class="line1"><span id="line_3">In the jungle, the mighty jungle</span> <span id="line_4">, the lion sleeps tonight</span> <span id="line_5">. In the jungle the quiet jungle</span><span id="line_6">, the lion sleeps tonight</span>......(</span>lyrics by <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><strong>Solomon Linda and the Evening Birds</strong></i>, made popular by the musical group the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Tokens)<o:p></o:p></i></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKzqaQNQUl7mV9jR44bc-H_NMcdB4TgCWTCkPRm9pjm5jeWj6FWTtGT6WXk2G5Y0zj84OquNbNcoRuQwCrWz5klEs0ORcS1C1TVPplSGPDSTxdRKLIVgffu1DuYGyJt8XkdQdUI4rv-Jq2/s1600/IMG_0927.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKzqaQNQUl7mV9jR44bc-H_NMcdB4TgCWTCkPRm9pjm5jeWj6FWTtGT6WXk2G5Y0zj84OquNbNcoRuQwCrWz5klEs0ORcS1C1TVPplSGPDSTxdRKLIVgffu1DuYGyJt8XkdQdUI4rv-Jq2/s320/IMG_0927.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #444444;">Last weekend, I had the very fortunate pleasure of visiting Las Posas while on an excursion with our local Lion's Club.</span> <a href="http://xilitla.org/">http://xilitla.org/</a></span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #444444;">This lovely garden is located deep in the Mexican rainforest in the area known as Xilitla. Las Posas, a brilliant and uniquely eccentric garden, was the brainchild of Englishman, Edward James.</span> </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #444444;">James was a millionaire as well as a talented poet, artist, and favored collector of the Surrealist Art Movement. His acquaintances and collaborators included luminaries such as Dali, Picasso, De Chirico, and Magritte.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #444444;">As a child, James possessed a lively imagination. He often drifted into a fantasy world as a means of escaping the hard reality of an inattentive and self-centered mother. This proclivity <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>would come in handy later in life.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #444444;">The exotic garden, Las Posas, dates back to 1947 when Edward James visited Xilitla, San Luis Potosi, hoping to purchase <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a coffee plantation <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>with the express intention of finding a home for his vast collection of prized orchids. While visiting the area, James discovered a series of welcoming pools of water known as Las Posas, located in the Sierra Gorda Mountains. After taking a dip in the river, he was sunning himself when a swarm of monarch butterflies landed on him and covered his body. He welcomed the phenomenon, seeing it as a good omen.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Calibri;">James bought the property and used the land to plant exotic <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>flowers and to house his vast collection of wild animals.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #444444;"> He was driven to build the sculptural structures that now stand after a disaster in<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1962, when the orchids he had planted were destroyed by an unusual snow storm that lasted three days.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Calibri;">At this point, James came up with a unique plan for a new, more resilient and fanciful garden that would serve as an homage to the Surrealists. He employed hundreds of native craftsmen, artisans, and stone masons. James designed and constructed a fantasy garden using unique materials with grandiose proportions, spending over 5 million dollars on the project. Many of his contemporaries suggested that James had simply "gone mad." By 1984, thirty-six sculptures made of reinforced concrete had been built.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #444444;">a walkway flanked by giant concrete serpents representing the seven deadly sins. Clearly, this is a fitting reference to James' love of animals, as he traveled the world with a snake in his baggage. Continuing along the path, we encountered huge concrete towers with soaring stairways that seem to touch the sky, blocking out the sun's rays.</span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> <span style="color: #444444;">Before long, the enticing sound of falling water and children's laughter could be heard in the distance. Shimmering waterfalls and babbling brooks beckoned, encouraging even someone with aguaphobia to dip their toes into the cool, clear, aquamarine colored water.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Calibri;">Young, carefree boys couldn't resist the lure of the cataract, as they leaped from platforms, head first, into the shallow pools below.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> Visitors had discarded their shoes all along the trail.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A<span style="color: #444444;"> giant aviary and ocelot cage, inspired by Leonardo Da Vinci's designs, loomed on the horizon. Soon, a grime covered workman stood at the side of the trail, awaiting our passage, while huge drops of perspiration fell like raindrops from his sweaty brow. </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #444444;">As we made our way through the thick foliage, tropical flowers and bromeliads shimmered in the distance.</span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Calibri;">A <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>young song bird vocalized in a nearby tree. Marsha asked me to snap a photo of the baby that was now calling plaintively for its mother. Next, an enormous <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>centipede lumbered across my path, scaring me at first, then sparking my curiosity, it's many legs rythmically drumming across the well worn stone pavers.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Calibri;">Tarzan vines swayed with the breezes making me pine for my childhood hero, Johnny Weissmuller.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrSR3LLp7UV9VVYFCcs_b61s2562Zag3geurrtypShhD5std6SCoI9LpFLI1AP2pwVEpfCTs9_WEBXacEDNcM3nJ09my9oPM1sJfvgXk40uZ49CfV6GrgFfeJqFf7Vjgexyd5z1-4LfH85/s1600/IMG_0966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrSR3LLp7UV9VVYFCcs_b61s2562Zag3geurrtypShhD5std6SCoI9LpFLI1AP2pwVEpfCTs9_WEBXacEDNcM3nJ09my9oPM1sJfvgXk40uZ49CfV6GrgFfeJqFf7Vjgexyd5z1-4LfH85/s320/IMG_0966.JPG" width="232" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> <span style="color: #444444;">I've always been a sucker for muscle-bound "he men." In this jungle oasis, I was also painfully aware of my own sweat beading up on my forehead as it trickled down my neck, the result of the ever-prese</span></span></span><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Calibri;">nt and oppressive humidity, a small price to pay for a once-in-a-life-time experience. And I'm not a girl who sweats easily.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Calibri;">Sadly, after William James' death, Las Posas fell into disrepair as he had exhausted his fortune and made no arrangements for its upkeep. </span></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Calibri;">Las Posas is currently owned by the Pedro and Elena Hernandez Foundation, one of Mexico's charitable organizations with the support of the San Luis Potosi government and the Cemex Corporation. Workers continue to restore and conserve the structures. They require constant attention due to the ravages of time and the high humidity. I highly recommend a visit if you plan a trip to Central Mexico.</span></span><br />
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<strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">Hours of Operation : 9:00am to 6:00pm — Open All Year<br />No Beverages or Food Allowed (except Water in Plastic Bottles)</span><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">No Pets Of Any Kind Are Allowed Inside Las Pozas</span><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">"Las Manos" craft and souvenir shop open 9:00am to 6:00pm — Closed Wednesdays</span><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">Guided Tours lasting 1hour and 15 minutes are available for </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">$200 pesos (in Spanish)</span></strong><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /><strong>$250 pesos (in English or French)</strong></span><br />
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 8pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">: </span></div>Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com0Xilitla, San Luis Potosí, Mexico21.383169 -98.99117321.3683835 -99.010914 21.397954499999997 -98.971432000000007tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-44065897782125619372012-06-25T21:04:00.002-05:002012-07-08T17:29:30.114-05:00American Food Frenzy<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">In the recent past, several people have asked me what I miss the most about growing up in Western New York, now that I am a permanent resident in Mexico. I have always responded with predictable answers such as..."my friends" or "my family." But, If I were to be completely honest, I would have to confess that I miss the food from my childhood almost as much.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">My hometown, Buffalo, New York has a long history of attracting European immigrants of almost every ethnic persuasion.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> As a result of their presence, Buffalo posesses a <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>rich and colorful culinary tradition. People from Italy, Poland, Ireland, Greece, Germany, Puerto Rico and the Ukraine have made a significant impact on the <span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="color: #666666;">cuisine</span> </span></span>available to Buffalonians. In the more recent past, restaurants offering Chinese, Thai, Indian, and Jamaican have become almost ubiquitous.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Living <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in Mexico, I often find myself in a trance-like state, wistfully daydreaming the day away, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>visualizing the foods that I miss the most. I can't help thinking about about my good friend, Anna's family tradition of making pierogis filled with farmer's cheese or sauerkraut at Christmas time,</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> the cucidatis (Italian fig cookies) that were a common sight in the Italian bakeries during the holiday</span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">, </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Lombardo's pasta bolognese topped with freshly grated Parmiagiano Reggiano, my mom's corned beef and cabbage, Vargas' slow-roasted pork with a side of plantains and rice, and the annual trips to the Broadway Market to purchase fresh Polish sausage with marjoram.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> I fantasize about<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Italian sausage seasoned with fennel from Scime's, Sinatra's mile-high lasagna, Casata cake (a Sicilian tradition, <span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">"cassata cake" refers to a sponge cake soaked in syrup or rum,</span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"> filled with strawberries and custard, and covered with sweetened whipped cream) , Wegman's submarine sandwiches, Nick's Texas Red Hots (The Texas hot is a regional specialty in Western New York and parts of Pennsylvania. This Buffalo regional favorite consists of hot dogs smothered in a spicy meat sauce with mustard and chopped onion),</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"> the Towne Restaurant's souvlaki, hot roast beef sandwiches on kimmelwech rolls (the<b> </b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">beef on weck sandwich</span> is a variety of roast beef sandwich found primarily in Western New York. The meat is traditionally served very rare, sliced paper thin and piled high atop a kimmelweck roll, a special bun topped with rock salt and caraway seeds. The roll gets <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>dipped into au jus. The usual accompaniments include super hot horseradish, a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pickled_cucumbers" title="Pickled cucumbers"></a>dill pickle spear, and french fries.</span><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> A local bar owner is said to have used the roll to create the beef on weck, with the hope that the salty top of the roll would make his patrons purchase more drinks.)</span><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">, and</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"> Lagniappe's <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cajun gumbo. I wake up in the middle of the night thinking about Ted's hot dogs and deep-fried onion rings, my mother's faschnaut kiekels (a Pennsylvania Dutch donut),</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"> meatloaf sandwiches at the Allen Street Hardware Cafe,the Catholic tradition of Friday night beer-battered fish fries, as well as the obvious and world renowned Buffalo chicken wings.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I miss the food festivals that are a yearly summer distraction. The <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Taste of Buffalo, </i>my favorite, is the largest two-day food festival<span style="color: #666666;"> in the <span style="mso-themecolor: text1;">United States</span></span>. This food extravaganza, which started in 1984, attracts thousands of people from far and wide who come to sample the delicacies offered by Buffalo's many restaurateurs. The Sorrento Cheese Italian Heritage Festival was always another excuse to stuff my face. For four glorious days every July, Buffalo's streets are transformed into "Little Italy." With over a half a million visitors attending each year, this event offers visitors every conceivable Italian goodie, as well as fun activities such as... cooking demonstrations, live musical entertainment with Italian crooners like Frank Sinatra Jr., Sicilian puppet shows, Tarantella street dancers, grape stomping contests, and daily processions. My husband, Tony, used to be there every day.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Having a past filled with all these sumptuous food experiences is a <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>down-right curse. Now, I've said it. Unfortunately, Mexico's restaurant offerings, at least in the eyes of this newcomer, are a bit repetitive and often poorly prepared . The food that I have encountered, thus far, leaves me feeling unfulfilled, a bit homesick, and maybe just a tad weepy. I can only get so excited about a taco. </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">This point was driven home for me last week on a recent road trip to Queretaro with my dear friend Marsha. We were cruising along the carretara when out of the corner of my eye, I spotted the blue and white <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">IHOP</i> sign.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> This restaurant is a very recent addition to the area. Before I even knew what hit me, the words "take the next right turn" tumbled from my mouth. Without any discussion, Marsha gleefully complied. Within a minute or two, we were sitting in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">IHOP</i>'s parking lot, both of us grinning from ear to ear. Our excitement was palpable. Visions of waffles and strawberry pancakes with bacon danced in our heads.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">How could anyone get that excited about American fast food, you ask? Deprivation does strange things to a<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>body. I've never considered myself a fast food enthusiast. Actually, one might be justified in calling me a food snob. We have a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">McDonald's </i>here in San Miguel de Allende and I pride myself in being able to walk by without so much as a second glance.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Something hit the both of us, that day, like a ton of bricks..... something I will call "American food envy or possibly frenzy" and we had it bad. We practically ran into the restaurant. As we approached the receptionist, we were politely told that there was a ten minute wait. I would have waited twenty. I can't speak for Marsha. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The line of people snaked out the door. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We weren't the only fools excited about eating at IHOP. </span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> By the time we got to our seats, </span></span>my mouth was watering like a dog with a bone.</div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> We stared at the menu, as if transfixed, as the smiling waiter delivered the insulated "pitcher" of piping hot coffee. </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Decisions, decisons..... This was tough. There were so many options. The menu was pages long with gorgeous color photographs. All we could do was giggle like school girls. </span></span></div>
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I almost selected this cheery item, until I found out that I was looking at the kiddie menu.</div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Marsha had the breakfast sampler platter which included farm fresh eggs, breakfast sausage, hash browns, and a side of, light as a feather, buttermilk pancakes.</span></span></div>
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Yes, the photo is blurry. Marsha's right arm kept moving!</div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> I chose the crispy waffles (that brought back childhood memories of the powdered sugar waffles <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>at <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Crystal Beach Amusement Park in its hayday) topped with strawberries and bananas along with home fries, breakfast sausage links, and two perfectly cooked sunny side up eggs.</span></span></div>
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If anyone at IHOP see this and wants me to star in their next commercial...I am available.</div>
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The selection of syrups...butter pecan is my favorite</div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> Oh, and of course, we didn't forget the freshly squeezed orange juice. I sound like a commercial, for Christ's sake. While the food took a while to arrive (I considered pounding on the table for a second or two but, thankfully, came to my senses), it was certainly worth the wait. To say we were both in heaven would be a gross understatement. I took many photographs to record the moment and the sense of excitement that we both shared. It was crazy but, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">very real.</b></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Sated, we asked for the check. My head was spinning in disbelief. Who knew that I missed American food to this degree? I guess I am not a food snob, after all. Good old American chow will always have a special place in my heart, if not in my tummy. </span></span></div>
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<br /></div>Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-63743278911132861302012-06-18T00:12:00.000-05:002012-06-25T21:15:17.576-05:00El Dia de los Locos<br />
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">San Miguel de Allende has an astounding number of fiestas and grand parades every year. One of my personal favorites is the tradition of El Dia de los Locos (translation....The Day of the Crazies), which is held the first weekend after the feast day of Saint Anthony of Padua on June 13th.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">This unique parade originated in the 19th century as an expression of faith and devotion. Historical accounts suggest that during colonial times, San Miguel was surrounded by fields of orchards. The Franciscan friars, connected to the local monastery, had introduced the laborers to Saint Pascual Bailon, the patron saint of field workers. The friars began to hold a special celebration for the orchard workers as a way to honor San Pascual Bailon.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Today's Locos parade has its roots in <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the festivites and merriment of the original orchard workers' fiesta where the local people danced as a way to give thanks to God and San Pascual Bailon for the year's harvest and to ask for continued prosperity in the coming year. During the first fiesta, it is said that crowds of observers <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>swarmed the dancers and in response, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>some of the early participants started to disguise themselves as scarecrows to keep the crowds at bay. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Sanmiguelenses began to call the dancers,"locos", a tradition that continues today.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">As this parade grew and <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>evolved, the dancers started to dress in not only scarecrow costumes but, other creatively conceived and constructed attire intended to represent beloved cartoon characters, local and national political figures, extra-terrestrials, devils, superheroes, animals, as well as parodies of famous people.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The present day spectacle involves hundreds of <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>crazily clad dancers who gyrate and <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>boogie to the frenetic music that blares from crazily ornamented parade floats stacked till bursting with loud speakers. The marchers fling candies as well as other sweet treats to the delighted throng of local children. In contrast, various jauntily clad brass bands march in military fashion along the parade route.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Let me share my experience of today's parade. I arrived rather early to insure that I had a ring side seat.... picture-taking was my top priority. I found a perch on the sidewalk, towards the end of the parade route, and proceeded to watch the crowd. (I would discover later that my husband had managed to find a prime spot atop a large wad of recently chewed bubble gum. Removing the gum from the sofa at home would prove to be quite a chore).There were countless strolling vendors who offered a variety of tasty goodies such as ice cream bars, homemade potato chips served with lime and hot sauce, pretzels, bolis (frozen popsicles), </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> strawberries and cream, and sodas. There were the usual children's pull-toy hawkers </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">and a new twist..... umbrella salesmen. These amiable fellows sold both brightly colored paper parasols and traditional cloth umbrellas.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> I felt compelled <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to acknowledge their entrepreneurial spirit in anticipating the people's need for shade. Later, I would recognize that the umbrellas had a more important purpose. They were intended as a tool for catching the candy being jettisoned through the air by the enthusiastic parade walkers (an inverted umbrella is better than a catcher's mitt).....</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> or for some people the umbrellas served another even more important function.... specifically, the shielding of vital organs (this will all become clear in a minute.)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I started the event sitting next to my husband but, within half an hour, as the crowds swelled, two small children and a nursing mother with small baby in tow managed to squeeze between us. The ability to cram one's body into tight spaces is a special knack that the Mexican people have surely mastered.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The close proximity of <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the youngsters <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>made the experience all the more delightful as their enchanted screams pierced the air. Avoiding being hit in the face with the flying candy became quite challenging and at one point, an airborne juice box managed to collide with my noggin. I wonder who thought throwing juice from the floats was a good idea? </span></span></div>
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Pointy Toed Boots, a phenomenon that I can't begin to explain</div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The dancers bobbed and weaved and, of course, sweated profusely under the weight of their costumes. Occasionally, a particularly proud dancer would stop for a picture taking session. The on-lookers eagerly cheered each group's passing and shouted "dulces, dulces" in hopes of being the happy recipients of some sweet treats.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The most curious aspect of the parade is the large volume of male participants who dress in women's clothing. This practice is quite common and the men seem to delight in cross-dressing. The more flamboyant the outfit, the happier they appear.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Mayhem, madness, and children's sticky fingers aside, el Dia de los Locos is a blast that shouldn't be missed.</span></span></div>
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</div>Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-43544670744787152912012-05-07T17:04:00.000-05:002012-05-08T08:06:23.781-05:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Whiling away another Sunday afternoon in the Countryside </span><br />
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Life in Mexico is tough with a capital "T". That’s what people who don’t reside here would like to think anyway. The drugs wars continue to rage on in close proximity to the border (stimulated by the ever-increasing number of drug users in the U.S.). Americans’ fears remain fueled by the un-remitting chatter of the” larger than life” newscasters who blather on about the dangers of living outside the safety of the good old U.S.A. but , at least for me, life in Ol’ Mexico is consistently and utterly idyllic. <br />
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I remember the glorious day, approximately four years ago, when it first became clear that I was going to be able to quit my job and move to San Miguel de Allende. I just couldn’t stop smiling. It was as if the happy fairy had tapped me with his magic wand. I felt this way for a good reason. Life here is just plain first-rate. It doesn’t get much better than this.<br />
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Let me share a recent Sunday afternoon. It all started when my dear friend, Marsha, extended an invitation for Sunday lunch at Patsy’s Place in the campo (campo is just another word for countryside)<a href="http://www.patsydubois.com/sundaylunch.html">http://www.patsydubois.com/sundaylunch.html</a>.<br />
Sixteen fun-loving, adventure- seeking folks responded and we all made the leisurely drive to Patsy’s. The thoroughfare to Patsy’s Place is a bit rocky, potholed, and rutted. It drops to one narrow, dusty lane in places (forcing the driver to play hopscotch with oncoming traffic) and goes on for miles with no end in sight. You feel a bit like Lewis and Clark exploring uncharted territory. One can see nothing but dried-up tufts of grass and cacti. The road meanders through a little concrete and brick village with one little store that sells nothing but cigarettes and coca-cola. Just when you are beginning to think you might be lost, you spot another sign for the ranch. You realize that you are almost there when you can see the large herd of cattle, grazing in their pasture with the purple mountains as their backdrop. Patsy’s boasts a huge fuchsia colored sign that greets you as you pass through the rickety fence posts.<br />
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The lengthy driveway is lined on both sides with gargantuan century plants, one bigger than the next. Patsy’s ranch goes on as far as the eye can see, made up of acres of gardens exploding with various succulents and exotic grasses. There are rosemary bushes the size of small elephants, walls swathed in bougainvillea and trumpet vines, flowering pomegranates bursting with ripened fruit, and water features chock full of lively, vividly colored fish. Various trees are decorated with small, glittering globes of colored glass. The site contains the main house, Patsy's personal residence, and a large banquet facility, ready to host bigger events. The banquet hall is in stark contrast to the rest of the property. Modern in design, the banquet hall sports a playful, purple coat of paint. In the very center of the property stands the main ranch house, low to the ground as it hums with activity. <br />
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Patsy greets you warmly with a big hug, making everyone feel welcome and home at last. Her accommodating and neatly clad staff take drink orders. Wine, beer, and homemade lemonade with a slice of lime are some of the offerings.<br />
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Entering the cool, covered veranda, you can’t help noticing how thoughtfuly everything has been arranged. Long tables have been dressed with colorful Mexican glassware and jewel toned napkins. Cooling fans whirl overhead.<br />
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Vases of fresh orange and yellow nasturtiums, freshly-plucked from the garden, adorn the dining tables. In the rafters above, Patsy has strung reams of paper streamers in a variety of festive hues.<br />
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Lush green ferns are clustered in pots throughout the space. A charming <em>Chickering</em> piano, a fond reminder of my dad’s old piano back home in Buffalo, sits beckoning in the corner, seducing more than a few in our party to play a tune or two. <br />
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Patsy summons everyone to join her in her brightly colored kitchen, prettily decorated with Mexican pottery and vibrant artwork, where preparations for lunch are in full swing.<br />
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owner, Patsy<br />
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Her servers circulate with tasty hors d’oeuvres such as stuffed squash blossoms lightly fried in a tempura batter and lettuce cups filled with an herbed tabbouleh.<br />
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The guests peruse the offerings for sale in Patsy's Pantry. Jarred dill pickles, dried herbs, and tomato flip are just some of the homemade goodies available for purchase.<br />
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The guests stroll around the grounds, even getting an opportunity to tour Patsy’s private quarters. <br />
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Her home is decidedly special, lovingly filled with Mexican crafts and quaint furniture, the rooms painted in bright tones of red, orange, green, and turquoise. <br />
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Her veranda is cute enough to take your breath away, filled with plenty of cozy equipale chairs, caressed by the filtered afternoon light, the walls decorated with little birdcages and even more sumptuous ferns.<br />
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Native bees have constructed a large hive in the eaves; they fly furiously past me on their way to their quarters.<br />
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Patsy prefers not to disturb their happy home. Her response to a guest’s query about why she hadn’t gotten rid of the bees. She countered with, “I don’t bother them and they won’t bother me.” <br />
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Lunch begins with a cool cucumber gazpacho, followed by teriyaki- marinated chicken,<br />
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a fresh fruit salad includes luscious mangos, sweet pineapple, and cantaloupe,<br />
crisp garden greens with a vinaigrette dressing, garnished with more nasturtiums,<br />
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a chilled, herbed pasta salad, and marinated grilled vegetables.<br />
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Dessert is a crispy meringue topped with a mango compote and juicy, ripe strawberries. The conversation is lively.<br />
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Some people are meeting other people for the first time. Others laugh and joke with old friends (although “old” is a relative term when it comes to friends here, as we are all newcomers to Mexico).<br />
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Many treasured photographs are taken.<br />
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No one wants to forget this afternoon. Life is good. In fact, it is very good.Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-56908069792933830032011-09-20T14:43:00.000-05:002011-09-20T14:43:11.853-05:00<a href="http://www.bloglovin.com/blog/3002783/musings-from-sunny-mexico?claim=qegu4w8undd">Follow my blog with Bloglovin</a>Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-49068193133761773012011-09-19T10:53:00.000-05:002012-05-28T19:59:03.755-05:00Tianguis (The Tuesday Market)A tianguis is an open air market or bazaar that is traditionally held on certain market days in a town or city neighborhood in Mexico and Central America. This bazaar tradition has its roots well into the pre-Hispanic period and continues in many cases essentially unchanged into the present day. ...<br />
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tianguis<br />
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Shortly after arriving in San Miguel de Allende, people started telling me about the “Tuesday Market.” They said things like, “Oh, you’ve gotta go.” and “You’ve never seen anything like it.”<br />
Curiosity finally got the better of me last year and I made the short, 1 and ½ mile, trek to Tianguis. Nothing could have prepared me for what I would find there.<br />
Tianguis is a sumptuous feast for all the senses. The colorful and unique sights, the tantalizing and occasionally off -putting aromas, and the unique and sometimes deafening sounds that come together in this place can almost be too much to bear for the first timer. It has taken me quite awhile to become accustomed to the sensory overload that one experiences. After two years, I feel as though I’m finally a veteran and now suitably prepared to share my knowledge with others.<br />
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There are hundreds of vendors, arranged in aisles under a hodgepodge of brilliantly colored tents and makeshift tarps as far as the eye can see. They sell an enormous selection of goods. If you can think of it, there’s a good chance you will find it at the market. On any given day, a shopper will find… fresh fruit and vegetables, chicken that some would say is the best in town, but I’m a little put off by the lack of refrigeration, huge slabs of beef, seafood (both fresh and fried), kitchen gadgets, pots and pans, cleaning supplies, ladies perfume, makeup and hair products, incense, plants for your garden, hand crafted jewelry, artwork, used clothing, new clothing from the United States, DVD’s with the latest movies (otherwise known as pirated knock-offs), CD’s (Banda, Ranchero, and Cumbia music [which originated in Columbia] can be heard around every corner at Tuesday Market), an assortment of livestock including bunny rabbits, chickens, pigeons, canaries, parrots, puppies, kittens, snakes, lizards, an occasional goat, and my all time favorite…. baby chicks that have been hand-dipped in Easter egg colors. <br />
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There are furniture makers, antiques dealers, car parts vendors, junk collectors, tool salesmen, and shoe and sneaker vendors. Any oddity that one can imagine can probably be found there.<br />
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I thought it might be fun to talk about my favorite things to do at Tianguis. My absolute obsession is having lunch (almuerzo) at the market.<br />
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Kirsten and I enjoying lunch<br />
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There are so many choices. It is really tough to make a decision. My favorite meal involves carnitas (Carnitas, literally "little meats", is a type of braised or roasted (often after first being simmered) pork in Mexican cuisine…Wikipedia.) The tiny jewel -like chunks of moist and crispy pork are carefully arranged in tiny hand-made corn tortillas that have been garnished with a dollop of a smoky and slightly hot but, not too hot, green salsa made from tomatillos.<br />
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I like to wash this down with a special, icy cold licuado (a licuado is a blended drink, originating in Mexico, made with fruit and milk). There are innumerable flavors to choose from such as mango, guava, melon, and strawberry/banana. Another one of my favorite beverages is called Horchata. Horchata or orxata is the name of several kinds of traditional beverages in Mexico, made of ground almonds, sesame seeds, rice, barley, or tiger nuts. I think that the drink I sampled was made with rice, almonds, and cinnamon.<br />
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beverage cart<br />
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For dessert, when I am feeling particularly svelte, I am drawn to another Mexican specialty, churros. I covet these moist and tasty goodies. It is all that I can do to pass this stand without stopping to breathe in their lovely fragrance. Churros are deep-fried Mexican doughnuts. The pastry is passed through an extruder and fried until golden and crispy on the outside and light and airy on the inside. While still warm, the churros are rolled in cinnamon and sugar and then placed in a paper wrapper. Life doesn’t get much better than this.<br />
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My other favorite activity at the market involves shopping for clothing. One of the biggest challenges, as a newly landed resident of San Miguel de Allende, is the complete absence of fashionable clothing that will accommodate the average North American woman’s body. The available garments in Mexico have been designed for a petite woman (both in width and height). The average dress size in the stores in downtown San Miguel, fits a size 0 and bears a striking resemblance to something Brittany Spears might favor ( in other words trashy)(Sorry Britt. It’s just how I feel). This apparent oversight on the part of the retailers never ceases to amaze me. Interestingly, while young Mexican women start out with a diminutive frame, somehow along the way things change rather dramatically. Women over forty can get quite large. This may be related to their fascination with day-glow orange corn puffs and Coca-colas, a story for another day. I have no idea where the more “mature” Mexican women do their clothes shopping. The only other location for traditional garment shopping is the mall at Lucianerga. For a woman like me, who refuses to pay inflated retail prices, this is not really a choice.<br />
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Tianguis can provide an alternative shopping experience; a savvy bargain hunter will find huge piles of clothing that have been brought to Mexico for resale. Most of the apparel has been sold to the Mexican vendors in bulk by retailers from the U.S. who are looking to unload last year’s styles (or possibly even the year before but, who’s counting?) Judging by the low prices, anywhere from $1.50 U.S. all the way up to $3.00, the vendors almost certainly pay by the pound. The clothing comes from retailers like T. J. Max and Marshalls as well as some high-end department stores, based on the original tags remaining on the garments.<br />
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I routinely see garments with designer labels including Ann Taylor, Dana Buchman, Ann Klein, Ralph Lauren, Banana Republic, Giorgio Armani, YSL, Betsey Johnson, Tommy Hilfiger, Eileen Fisher, Isaac Mizrahi, and Vera Wang. I have also seen some real dogs. Clothes that you wouldn’t gift to your worst enemy, fearing that someone might think that you had poor taste. Well, real fashion finds just get my juices flowing. I can stand in front of a pile of clothing, with hundreds of other style-starved ladies like myself, for hours, rooting through the heaps of clothing like a dog looking for his favorite bone. When a shipment of new clothing comes in and people realize that there are some real gems among the fashion don’ts, things can get quite heated. I have seen clothing actually flying in the air. Once, I got hit in the head by someone’s discarded blouse. I don’t think that it was intentional, just over- enthusiasm.<br />
My all time favorite shopping experience happened a few weeks ago. I went to Tianguis with a couple of friends. My amiga, Sylvia, was on a mission to find unique costumes for a special event, namely Burning Man. She brought Kirsten and me along for the ride, acknowledging both our fashion expertise and unique abilities at finding unusual items at the market. I credit my mother for this skill. She was not ashamed to shop in some of the most unlikely places back home, if it meant that a bargain was to be had. Until I was able to buy my own shoes, I wore a lot of cast-offs from the bargain table at Sears. Trying them on was always a problem as they would wire the shoes together to prevent the pair from being separated. I would find myself, dragging one shoe behind me, when trying them on at the store.<br />
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But first, I should explain Burning Man. Burning Man is an annual art event and temporary community in the middle of the Black Rock Desert of Nevada, three hours and many miles from any humanity. The whole emphasis of this event is radical self expression and self-reliance. The self-reliance is referring to the fact that one has to brave the oppressive desert heat, the occasional dust storms that blow through, as well as the grueling experience of having to live in a dusty tent for a week.<br />
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Admirably, Sylvia was hell bent on expressing her zany side at this event, seeking madcap, sexy clothing in unique colors. We found some decidedly interesting get-ups that day, including dangling Katrina style earrings, wild and crazy hats, a hot pink tutu, skin tight glitter bedazzled jeans, and an ostrich feather boa. Needless to say, the local women who stood shoulder to shoulder with us at the table, while we sorted through the melee, seemed quite fascinated by our unique choices of clothing that day. You could see them giggling to themselves when they thought we weren’t looking. Sylvia finally explained to them that we were shopping for “crazy clothes” and they began to gleefully assist us in our quest. At the end of the day,I can say with some assurance that a fine time was had by all!<br />
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Sylvia in one of her glorious finds from Tuesday Market. You go girl!Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-90884591077948294912011-07-16T16:56:00.001-05:002011-07-16T16:56:19.164-05:00<style type="text/css" media="screen">
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<h2> <a href="http://www.goodreads.com/user/show/5803539-carol-hammond?utm_medium=api&utm_source=grid_widget" style="text-decoration: none;">Carol's book montage</a><br />
</h2> <br />
<div class="gr_grid_container"> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/2657.To_Kill_a_Mockingbird" title="To Kill a Mockingbird"><img alt="To Kill a Mockingbird" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1234606708s/2657.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/5107.The_Catcher_in_the_Rye" title="The Catcher in the Rye"><img alt="The Catcher in the Rye" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1165517671s/5107.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/4671.The_Great_Gatsby" title="The Great Gatsby"><img alt="The Great Gatsby" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1273944449s/4671.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/7613.Animal_Farm" title="Animal Farm"><img alt="Animal Farm" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1310833702s/7613.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/890.Of_Mice_and_Men" title="Of Mice and Men"><img alt="Of Mice and Men" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1309211906s/890.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/865.The_Alchemist" title="The Alchemist"><img alt="The Alchemist" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1287827991s/865.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/4981.Slaughterhouse_Five" title="Slaughterhouse-Five"><img alt="Slaughterhouse-Five" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1227252234s/4981.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/4137.Me_Talk_Pretty_One_Day" title="Me Talk Pretty One Day"><img alt="Me Talk Pretty One Day" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1165389015s/4137.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/18135.Romeo_and_Juliet" title="Romeo and Juliet"><img alt="Romeo and Juliet" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1294599765s/18135.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/7624.Lord_of_the_Flies" title="Lord of the Flies"><img alt="Lord of the Flies" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1165637417s/7624.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/2956.The_Adventures_of_Huckleberry_Finn" title="The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn"><img alt="The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1274410225s/2956.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/1934.Little_Women" title="Little Women"><img alt="Little Women" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1309282614s/1934.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/1381.The_Odyssey" title="The Odyssey"><img alt="The Odyssey" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1309285632s/1381.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/1953.A_Tale_of_Two_Cities" title="A Tale of Two Cities"><img alt="A Tale of Two Cities" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1309203235s/1953.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/24280.Les_Mis_rables" title="Les Misérables"><img alt="Les Misérables" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1309282167s/24280.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/153747.Moby_Dick_or_The_Whale" title="Moby-Dick or, The Whale"><img alt="Moby-Dick or, The Whale" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1309376917s/153747.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/930.Memoirs_of_a_Geisha" title="Memoirs of a Geisha"><img alt="Memoirs of a Geisha" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1157749066s/930.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/536.The_Lovely_Bones" title="The Lovely Bones"><img alt="The Lovely Bones" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1266447885s/536.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/37435.The_Secret_Life_of_Bees" title="The Secret Life of Bees"><img alt="The Secret Life of Bees" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1309201004s/37435.jpg" /></a></div> <div class="gr_grid_book_container"><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/19501.Eat_Pray_Love" title="Eat, Pray, Love"><img alt="Eat, Pray, Love" border="0" src="http://photo.goodreads.com/books/1294023455s/19501.jpg" /></a></div> <br />
<br style="clear: both"/><br/><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/user/show/5803539-carol-hammond" class="gr_grid_branding" style="font-size: .9em; color: #382110; text-decoration: none; float: right; clear: both">Carol Hammond's favorite books »</a><br />
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<noscript><br/>Share <a href="http://www.goodreads.com">book reviews</a> and ratings with Carol, and even join a <a href="http://www.goodreads.com/group/">book club</a> on Goodreads.</noscript><br />
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</div> <script src="http://www.goodreads.com/review/grid_widget/5803539?cover_size=&hide_link=&hide_title=&num_books=20&order=&shelf=&sort=&widget_id=1310853167" type="text/javascript" charset="utf-8"></script>Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-11520328484201679312011-07-07T16:01:00.001-05:002019-05-20T08:15:02.326-05:00The Sounds of San Miguel de AllendeI think it is the right time to discuss the sounds of Mexico. For a gringa, like me, the unusual sounds that one hears on a daily basis require an adjustment in one’s thinking. Back home, I used to get annoyed by the low-level sound of passing cars…. that occasional “swoosh” one hears as cars drive down the adjacent streets. I felt that the sound invaded the peace and tranquility of my garden. I found the noise irritating enough that my husband went to the trouble of installing a small pond with a waterfall in order to mask the sound. <br />
I still recall the first morning that I woke up in my new home here in old Mexico to the sound of a rooster crowing enthusiastically on the roof next door, at approximately 4 AM. The rude awakening brought back memories of a trip to Roatan, Honduras. Just like it was yesterday, I recall quite vividly that the roosters crowed all night long, apparently disturbed by the lights of passing cars. I soon discovered that they were living directly under my cabana and that everyone, except me of course, knew about the roosters and found the situation quite amusing.<br />
Fortunately, my friend, the Mexican rooster soon settled down. But, only long enough for the next surprise. Fireworks began to erupt at about 6 AM. The cacophony of sounds lasted for a full hour. I would soon discover that fireworks play an integral role in Mexican life, a topic for another day, perhaps. The exploding rounds promptly set off the roof dogs, which are inclined to bark relentlessly when any stranger passes. <br />
As the noise finally subsided, I slowly fell back asleep only to be roused five minutes later by the clamorous music of the Sonic gas truck, as it lumbered slowly down the street in hopes of finding some customers. Next came the vegetable man, with another catchy tune blaring from a set of speakers mounted on the roof of his truck ,while he attempted to be heard over the din, shouting on a microphone while informing the neighbors what fruits and vegetables were on special that day. I have to admit that the various tunes are quite catchy and after a few weeks, I actually began to identify which vender was passing. Once again I drifted off to dreamland only to be woken this time by a strange hissing sound; it seemed very close. Too close for comfort. At first, I was unable to identify the source. Could it be a snake? Raising my head off the pillow, and quickly glancing around the room, I saw nothing out of place. Then, framed perfectly in the eyebrow window above the door to my bedroom, I spied a colorful hot air balloon, hovering in the air above my casa. My first thought….“my god, I am naked! I wonder if those people in the balloon can see me?” (Please note that I am not particularly inclined towards public nudity. It never occurred to me that anyone would be capable of seeing past the high wall that surrounds my little house.) <br />
Finally, the gentleman who sells fresh rolls approached the house. He shouts “bolillos, bollillos”…..hoping to attract some buyers. As the dust settled, a garbage truck appeared in the distance.<br />
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The garbage men alert the neighbors of their proximity by banging two metal pipes together, waiting patiently as all my neighbors stream from their houses with garbage in tow. Just as everything seemed to settle down, I heard a peculiar whistle. I wondered what it could be. Why it’s the fellow who sharpens knives, of course.<br />
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Is it done yet, you ask? Not quite….Soon the carefree sounds of Ranchero music drift into the bedroom. My neighbor, Hector, the local herrero (ironworker) begins his day by switching on his favorite radio station. I think to myself, “must be time to get up! No, lollygagging in bed for you, my dear. The whole of Mexico is alive and well.<br />
I am sure you are thinking, “Lord, it sounds downright noisy in Mexico.” Strangely, I can honestly say that all is well here in my new home. I have become quite accustomed to the din. It has grown to be such a part of my daily life that it rarely disturbs me. I actually find the clamor quite reassuring. The noise is simply a delightful reminder of the vibrancy and joyful celebration of what life has to offer. This is what Mexico is all about.Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8528545574569700400.post-33775694628112174822011-06-06T19:18:00.000-05:002011-09-19T14:08:01.208-05:00Finding My Way<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"> Having landed in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico a full year and eight months ago, I feel it is finally the right time to share the richness of my experiences here. Time has literally flown since leaving my good ol' hometown of Buffalo, New York. I think the thing I miss the most about home, besides my friends, is the green growth of Spring, the leaves just starting to appear on the trees and the tulips breaking through the the remains of last fall's leaves. I miss the first hint of the summer to come, when the snow begins to melt and the temperatures are just starting to be a bit less frosty and all the youngsters put on their shorts and sandles, in hopeful anticipation of what's to come, while the rest of us were still sporting our cold weather gear.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"> Life is certainly different here. I hardly notice the change of seasons. One just runs into another. People complain that it is chilly here in the winter and I just giggle. It is apparent that the complainers have never experienced the numbing cold of a "true" Buffalo winter. For example, I was attending a party at a friend's house last night and the temperature dropped to 66 degrees. Everyone on the patio ran for their jackets while I toughed it out in my shirtsleeves. I thought back to the days when I was rowing competively with the West Side Women's Masters Crew. We were in Boston in late October, rowing the "Head of the Charles." My crew and I were on the river in our scull preparing for the race, wearing only our unisuits (one-piece jumpshorts that are made of light-weight spandex) with our team colors and a pair of cotton socks. We believed that excess clothing would only slow us down. A women's crew from California rowed up next to us and were clearly astounded at our lack of clothing (note that they were all bundled up like Eskimos). They asked us where we were from and that information seemed to satisfy their curiosity. So, Buffalo winters have certainly prepared me for the small range of temperatures in San Miguel.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"> Daily life is simple here. San Miguel brings back so many fond memories of my childhood back in Buffalo. It reminds me of a time when people were comfortable letting their children play outside, back before malls and superstores, back when mom and pop stores were where people shopped, back when people went to church on Sunday and family life was the most important thing in everyone's lives. The elderly were revered for their life's contributions and their knowledge. Surprisingly, that lifestyle still exists here in central Mexico. Unlike back home, I know all my neighbors on my little calle. I can walk to the corner and buy farm fresh vegetables, fruit, milk, eggs and bread each morning. Conveniently, the local butcher is two blocks away. I can buy a roast chicken, potatoes, tortillas, and salad for less than the equivalent of four dollars without getting in my car. Every evening, people knock on my door selling warm, homemade gorditas, nopal salad, and crisp, fresh rolls without preservatives .</span><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"> The plumber, who lives a block away, will come to my house and make a repair for ten dollars. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"> People are clearly happy here despite leading very simple lives. Everyone doesn't have a big car and a grand house yet, they love life. Every weekend brings a new cause for celebration. It seems that there are just a lot more saints here in Mexico. The rich sensory experiences one encounters daily enliven the spirit. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpexTAJCGIIriQA4e75bjwsASbo1fEqhpqfyRtVoMkDheOr2gucemZsf-DMvC61JVuOMAYsI8HVNRBhDmxZLCPDQfCd80Hm555By4xtAp7td8DKWzCZ7sA9TYPxukMOusRVduzP9P7FeKp/s1600/mojiganga.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="170" width="71" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpexTAJCGIIriQA4e75bjwsASbo1fEqhpqfyRtVoMkDheOr2gucemZsf-DMvC61JVuOMAYsI8HVNRBhDmxZLCPDQfCd80Hm555By4xtAp7td8DKWzCZ7sA9TYPxukMOusRVduzP9P7FeKp/s320/mojiganga.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The Mojigangas joyfully dancing in the streets, the enticing aroma of pineapple and pork wafting from the local taco vendor's cart, the rousing bursts of ranchero music streaming from people's homes, the exploding rounds of fireworks bursting in the air, the handsome strolling mariachi in the jardine, and the parades of people dressed in colorful indigenous costumes are the norm here.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhskvwODXXDMSxtJ781QnyxuNzH7Wb1J7L8mGHsZIxreuuCNRRV9kqRylXiXFdXZg4vY_sq4F1y5RrWoz0wQZzkO1Ce84CM_JAMTPII-v6LgwHzgx8MtmfgFhUcLFYlKx98X9J3E6VpG6BO/s1600/marriachi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="140" width="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhskvwODXXDMSxtJ781QnyxuNzH7Wb1J7L8mGHsZIxreuuCNRRV9kqRylXiXFdXZg4vY_sq4F1y5RrWoz0wQZzkO1Ce84CM_JAMTPII-v6LgwHzgx8MtmfgFhUcLFYlKx98X9J3E6VpG6BO/s320/marriachi.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTGH9Ao0BFMcqDpZYQinHFgYqVkkfAAhQfRy7XsWRFd_hTrXp9ZY4mnWnkr9uYCgL7uU8rzglxVTKX8w3BBCEl2HbA8w35yCrEtot2Cf_h__Ktj_5WLVwNolJttxFDyxN_zkQMwbvwrdVa/s1600/smda10s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="150" width="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTGH9Ao0BFMcqDpZYQinHFgYqVkkfAAhQfRy7XsWRFd_hTrXp9ZY4mnWnkr9uYCgL7uU8rzglxVTKX8w3BBCEl2HbA8w35yCrEtot2Cf_h__Ktj_5WLVwNolJttxFDyxN_zkQMwbvwrdVa/s320/smda10s.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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That joyous and robust approach to life is what I find most compelling. It is what makes me love Mexico and it's people.<br />
</span>Carol Hammondhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09944030513733959027noreply@blogger.com0